sheffieldcortinacentre

Ah I thought you ment fluid was at pass side but not drivers. See if both pistons move but it does sound like it's seized.

175 or 185/70x13

If fluid is going into the cylinder & back out ,then the across axle pipe must be blocked/squashed. If there's no physical damage try blowing through it ( an airline would be best) try both directions. If it was going in but not out then I'd have suspected wheel cyl was blocked..

Bargain can't believe you didn't get it. You could probably have imported a couple from rock auto for less.

With that setup steering should be light, must admit steering on my crayford is very heavy ( had it checked a couple of times) ok on move but like inop pas when stood. Original owners son told me his dad sold it within a couple of years due to the steering being so heavy! I left mtoc for same reason ( I rejoined post COVID when the Cortina oc folded) it was no longer the same was very cliquey which I found hilarious as I've forgotten more than they know. That was something they didn't like. Helena, bobby & a few others are still great people but rest 🙄🙄🙄

The pas in cars over the last 10-15 years is ridiculous I find it's so over assisted its like being on a playstation there's no feel/feedback at all. But this is what people want total isolation from the world outside their box buyers are more interested in the amount of pointless toys a vehicle has than how reliable,drive able,etc it is & how impressed/jealous their friends, neighbours, colleagues etc will be by it & all they other stuff they've got that's one payment from being taken away from them thank they think is the route to happiness. Alot of people can't believe I've never had anything on credit, finance,hpi,BBC,itv or whatever the latest name is for debt. The only thing I think that's worth that life path is a house ( not houses ) it's somewhere to live not a commodity you may need to move if you start a family but not for vanity etc. Anyway now I've put the world to rights back to cars. If I cars been stood the grease in the ball joints & tca's may have gone hard , I've heard of people popping the boots off & dripping a couple of drops of oil in/on the ball to soften it up.

Probably both.

The rollbars are hard to find nowadays.

As the ohc was the most common engine this is what everyone stocks nowadays. I'll check but seem to recall cologne V6 ones are 295, Essex V6 are 340 & small block ford V8 360. HD springs are an average 20lbin more. The works rally car had twin rear anti roll bars ( never tried this) was a fair but about rear end work . The racers retained std single but were 5 linked & turreted ( unlike UK cars. For improved handling bushes,anti roll bars & shockers are more important.

Def not under sills. I always put under axles if possible if not chassis rails, at Y piece where rear axle mounts & at very front where the vertical part overlaps the horizontal part. These should be the strongest parts ( rust permitting).

That's a polite name for him. His supercar is the remains of a clapped out beetle with a lump of fibreglass coach bolted to it , these pound shop mike brewers drive me crazy it's like advanced faceache i can't watch/listen/interact with these people. I don't claim to be any sort of expert I'm still learning amassing info,but my replies/advice are based on 40 years of experience ( especially of mk3-4-5-P100) which I hope will help others save them wasting hard earned time & money on things that don't fit/work ,etc. I've been striving to be be an eccentric millionaire all my life unfortunately I've only mastered the first part.

I know what you mean, but no as the upper wishbone bolt goes through a tube which is welded into/through cradle , lower is two bolt holes.( American GM 60/70s double wishbone stuff can be adjusted like you say with shims on upper arm). Unfortunately You can't alter the camber without modification or adjustable arms ( caterhams etc do this but I don't think those will fit as they only used to use the stub axle )easiest (also free) is redrilling the lower arm cradle mount holes ,. n the 90s I did one with slots instead of holes, & used some of those serrated plates off the rear axle lower mounts so it would lock adjustment in place & put some marks at 5mm increments ( eat your heart out escort boys) ,you can alter the caster via the tie bar that goes between lower arm & front of cradle. It's the only std adjustment possible ( except tracking). The front cradle could be moved up/down to alter ride height but it while raise eng/box thus altering drive line angle.

If you go much more than an inch you'll start scrubbing the inside of the front tyres due to increased negative camber . If memory serves 1 degree needs the lower arm mounting bolt moving inwards 5mm. Used to run 3 degrees negative on racer (cornering was great) but tyres would be bald on inside edge in circa 4k miles on road. So you have to get adjustable arms or redrill cradle, best supplier is rally design, most places don't understand Cortina running gear as escort is king, especially Burton power. Same will happen with rear I think there used to be wedge shaped spacers for the rear bearing mounts on sierra to correct camber. Most of all remember with state of roads it will soon drive you crazy dodging potholes, speed bumps etc. If you really must have the collapsed suspension look go air ride.

Yep that's about right, can't beat hot spanner & a bfh.

So far found MK3 frt & rear, 4/5 rear & MK2 Granada frt.