sheffieldcortinacentre

Yep mk3 Granada have them.

Everyone is obsessed with making everything the same now, but it's said it's because no one is willing to try anything new incase it doesn't make more money than last year, god forbid it makes a smaller profit as that means the investors will pull out.

Yep used to break it of in chunks . I've not been back since I had to sell our last one in 03, we had three over the 28 years on same site happy memories. I want to remember the place like it was rather than the clone it is now.

Lol seen worse scale. We used to have to take a big bottle of tap water to caravan every time we went ( chapel st Leonard's) as dog wouldn't drink the water full stop down there.

That amount looks like it's from condensation, you've got decent flow. It shouldn't have jammed stat,was it all gunged up? Did you have a thermometer in pan with stat as you heated it up so you could check temp it opened at ( it should be stamped on it)?

Have to double check Got new 4dr rear wing & a pair of 2dr ( gen ford), think I've a headlight panel gen ford, Pair of used doors, Think I've upper & lower valances, Might have a used upper rear panel.

Pump is easiest part to find.

Mate has a 205 block for sale £50. Also 4 cylinder type 9 5 speed Inc clutch arm £300 both in Sheffield near M1 .

No it's a mate wants one he's not fussed as long as it doesn't leak & has straight pipe not the right angled ohc ones. How much & where are you? Email him midniteclassix@yahoo.co.uk

The inners are same as MK2 escort std models ( RS are imperial thread same as all mk1s)with metric thread.

Cone drill.

Wanted std radiator ohv or any escort,Capri,Cortina ohv radiator ( or straight pipe ohc) prefer posted.

Used to enjoy his stuff in PPC.

Getting hard to find now.

Mk3-4-5 are all same some have a return pipe just block of if your carb doesn't have one.

Heater control doesn't effect flow on cortinas. Remove top heater hose when filling to bleed air ( it's highest point in system.

Possibly depending on cap.

Exhaust is probably condensation, a new cap is peanuts & seconds to fit /try. After that a compression tester is cheap & simple to use. You could buy a water system pressure tester or make one from an old rad cap. Drill a hole in the centre of cap ,remove innards fit a tyre valve in hole fit cap then use your tyre pump to put about 15psi in system. The pressure should remain constant. If it starts to drop look/listen for water/air leaking somewhere.

Always had good results with rally design. The spring rate is that is how much it takes to squash them 1in. Some say you can put them on a bathroom scale & get someone to measure the spring length while you push down on it & read the amount. So if your spring is supposed to be 230 lb/in & is 12 in tall , it should take that to push the spring down to 11in. Hope that makes sense.

You meen Burton power , trouble is if at ain't an escort then no one has a clue. They all tend to sell ohc springs as that's most common setup no matter what you order. Years ago there were several spring makers in Sheffield now don't think there's one, we've no panel shop or radiator shop as far as I know. I used to go & they had specs for all sorts of makes & models. Inc 3.0 cortinas. That's like mine was except opposite way so neg camber. If you redrill lower arm mount roughly 10 mm further out it should be roughly right, as again I'd that inwards to correct it.

None of that should effect the camber, mine is perfectly fine with the sbf 302 it's been in 23 years & settings are still same. All the cradles will interchange. Geometry needs to be checked with vehicle on level ground with weight on it , checking it as per photos it will be wrong ( dunno by how much but definitely wrong).

Try contacting member nmonkey220@hotmail.com he might have one.

The arms aren't handed ,only the uprights & front tie bars are. The only things I can see would be bent stub axles ( but would expect bent upwards is possible giving excess neg camber though) or very strong springs which would cause arms to point downwards due to pushing body/chassis up ( not sure if there's enough travel to do this). Otherwise something would have to be excessively out of line/bent. When I had the one with the excessive neg camber we measured everything several times & could never find anything wrong. I checked numourus sources & measured several other cars (even the angle of stub axles ) & they were all the same or within a mil , could never figure it out. Don't know what to suggest.

Think Only on I've got has had a welded repair piece on pass front at sometime

People have used the threaded bar from centre of a a cortina etc side lift jack before.