sheffieldcortinacentre

Yes it's ridiculous I get more pleasure from driving mine & chatting to people about the days out as kids in the family car than worrying about if my wheel nuts line up or as you say have ford air in the tyres. I now tend to go to the small village fate type shows than anything else. It's also one of the reasons I built my touring car MK3 as it winds the rivet counters up ( which I find hilarious as when it comes to mk3-4-5,P100's I can out rivet them with ease). I say to them would you rather it wasn't here than be like this? If so get your wallet out & you can spend the money restoring it back to a concourse GT As I'm having way more fun hammering the life out of it. When it comes to this sorta thing I always think of the millionaire who was asked aren't you scared of crashing the ex works ,lemans winning D type Jag when your racing it? His reply was that it only comes alive when doing this & if he just wanted to sit & look at it he would've just bought a model of it. I believe Barry sheenes son says the same about his Suzuki races bikes, that seeing people ride them in anger reminds him of how his dad Barry felt about them being just on display.

Any inline servo is to big to fit in the corner of engine bay on mk1-2 & is why they have a remote one, some (LHD) export ones had a similar setup to the mk1-2 escort were it's mounted on a long extension placing it near the front of bay. But I'm not very knowledgeable on mk1-2 though so don't know if this would work on rhd , a different master cylinder wouldn't be to hard to fit.

Yep gl/Ghia are the sculpted ones in MK4, Mk5 are flatter. Think all I've got is a prefacelift MK3 base/L/GT in black vinyl with a split in top.

Must be crazy for a bit of rubber you'll never see.

Sorry no luck, unfortunately probably fell off years ago, other fords of the period used the same stuff. East Kent trim may do something. Other makes & models probably use/used something similar. Places like Rimmer Bros have lots of BL stuff in their online catalogues, or have a hunt round breakers yards ( not so easy nowadays). I wanted to try get a post for alternative parts that fit or with minor mods fit but there was little interest. Door & boot seals are pretty universal. MK3-4 escort ones were near identical ( but are are rare as cortinas now in a breakers).

Not that you'll notice, might have some will check tomorrow.

No problem just had someone after one recently & mainly have mk3-4-5 -P100 stuff.

Capri & MK2 Granada ones are straighter than sierra/MK3 Granada.

Yes any wire should be fine. Far as I know it's in the ford factory workshop manual. As long as the key is in you should be ok,

Would you have a spare 1600 sump?there was someone looking for one for a late estate.

People in general due to the copper colour

Ok that could be worn tumblers inside the lock which would need a rebuild or a replacement lock. Your to far away but this is something I do regularly. To remove the barrel from the housing the lock/with key in needs to be in either position 1 or 2 ( it varies) then you need to press the spring in ( in a slot about halfway down housing) you will then be able to pull the lock barrel out. I doubt you'll find a rebuild kit nowadays, so you'll have to fit a new or used barrel with key. All TC 1- 3 ( Facelift 74 onwards) use the same one , as do mk1-2 Granada ( for some reason MK2 escort is a mirror image so won't engage properly) . The job is fiddly rather than complex. Any problems pm me & I'll try to explain.

By copper most people meen kunifer.

The petrol will have evaporated by now, the problem will be the broken wire. The lock is supposed to go in a few mm when the key is in, it sounds like the key is worn ( they are brass) after 40 years of use, you need to get a new one cut.

I'm more interested in longevity & practicality than originality.

Is fuel getting to the pump, & coming out of pump? I have come across some pumps were to pipes fit on opposite unions to one already fitted. If nothing is getting to pump suspect a blocked pipe or pick up in tank. Is it coming out of pump ? Is the pump pushrod to short /missing? As again I've come across pumps that have a shorter rod & so need the isolated block removing or they have a short rod in block that can fall out & rest in the triangle on cradle. If pump is pumping is the pipe blocked between pump & carb, or on a Weber is the filter in the large brass nut blocked. If fuel is getting into bowl as the accelerator pump diaphragm split so not giving a squirt of fuel to aid starting.( Single & twin choke carbs).

The mirror stalk is mazak alloy so can't be welded ( it was supposed to snap off in an accident ) all 70's fords used the same one, 80s went to the stick on ones. Also never try to remove mirror from stalk by popping it off the ball as you'll never get it back on without breaking it. TC 1-2 use same one & 79 TC 3 do but 80 onwards have the stick on one.

Those worked, answers would be as above, the escort,Capri, Granada, MK3 cortina all use the same mirror/mounting so would fit. The rubber could be super glued. Just remembered the door rubbers from the MK3/4( fwd escorts) are the same.

If there is fuel in float chamber make sure the two jets in bottom of chamber are clean/clear .

I just get either a blank page or image not compatible??? Do you meen the thin one that presses against the glass? This is used on most 70's fords , or the one between body & door? The later I used some of a teens vauxhall astra very close to those ( just find ones abit longer & trim to length. Same for tailgates & trunk/bootlids.

I use copper for the headlines & PTFE/stainless braided flex is the later makes a very noticeable difference in pedal feels/travel.

Done that many times my racer, blue 2dr & old p100 full painted like that.

The headlining won't really move it's very small opening, the pics won't show but should be one of the clip I've just taken.ive got mirrors but I'm not sure what you mean re damage without a picture same with weather strip.im useless with computers so can't suggest how to get them to work. Make a simple tester with a bulb & bulb holder & couple of pieces of wire the dash lights are very simple just power ( grey/yellow) with switch on then touch one wire to it in various places & other wire to metal or brown earth wire. If bulb lights power is getting that far if not there's a break/problem before there.

How long is a piece of string, you'll probably have more trouble finding some one willing to do it, doubtful anyone will quote without seeing job & like welding what you can see will be the tip of the iceberg.

1. To remove mirror stalk prise the U shaped trim piece out ( it has lugs at each side), loosen the retaining bolt & wiggle the stalk out. 2. The dash lights could be one of several things Do the external lights work ? The dash lights go through the rheostat ( grey/yellow wire) check for power at switch, rheostat,dash plug,damage to printed circuit. Check the brown earth wire at dash plug. The rheostat knob should pull off (may need prising off if tight) joints the wires to bypass this. 3. The blower switch is probably springing back because there is debris in the heater box between the heater core/radiator & the flap inside ( remove heater core & clean out.