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Everything posted by GhiaMk4/5

  1. I like this car a lot, reminds me so much of my old 2000E, there's a good selection of other projects that it shares company with.
  2. Stoke had Yates's very good machine shop, unfortunately long gone, so if l wanted any machining, I dont know who I would use!!
  3. Always liked Marcos, welcome and hope you get some stopping power.
  4. Find out who supplies Rally design, you don't want problems again, it takes the shine off such a brilliant looking car and it's not your balls up, my 2000E as mentioned before was wonky, and it really got my goat. Could be worse, to put my wife's E class right, the rear suspension set up is nearly £2k, I'm looking at alternatives!!
  5. 10 years ago there seemed to be a fair few Otasun Taunuses on the road in Turkey, all seemed to be fairly solid, it seemed like they didn't discard anything out there.
  6. I never promised myself a Sierra, but l purchased one, it was in my defense a 2.8i Ghia 4x4 estate, which towed a 26foot twin axle caravan with ease, for some reason, I liked the cologne engine, never realised they put a Sierra front end on a Mk5.
  7. Been on Alibaba, prices for coil springs are ridiculously cheap, so is everything else, but it is Chinese quality, I just purchased some led bulbs for the Merc, supposedly UK seller, got them today, from CHINA, one has failed already!!!!
  8. Perhaps he just likes a change and making a bit of money, he could also be a Libran, who generally are very indecisive!!!!??? Guess what birth sign I am!!! I rest my case, more wheels than JBW and never enough cars!!!
  9. There are several cars that have the rubber pad, I fit a lot of coil overs to customers cars, Ford Focus, BMW etc or make some out of a scrap lorry inner tube, Burton Power are only a supplier, it' buy rubbish and sell for lots of profit, the L bracket or other method should keep spring in check, or a small u clamp to lock it in position.
  10. Another idea, a lot of springs sit on a rubber pad, would mean dismantling your suspension to get one in, unless you split it and fed it in under the spring. I know from experience the 3/4/5 springs are under a lot of pressure, so you shouldn't really be getting this problem, perhaps a build up of painted surfaces not allowing the spring to grip metal to metal so to speak.
  11. Make an L bracket coming off your anti roll bar bolts to keep the spring in situ, or weld a sort of u clamp onto the bottom arm that will lock the spring in place, not ideal, or back to standard springs.
  12. I'd go with the Yuasa. The main thing is using it or keeping it trickle charged or l have a solar panel that l charge some of my batteries with, just had a £100.00 Exide battery fail on my daughter's T4, luckily 3 year guartantee, so free replacement. High street is always better than internet IMO. Just purchased a Yuasa battery from Halfords for a motorbike, wouldn't crank the bike over, went to main stealer, £5.00 more than Halfords and he reckoned the Halfords one was counterfeit and he said it was a weight thing!!!
  13. Go for the biggest one that will fit your battery tray, or is your battery in the boot, and go with the highest cranking ampage, Eurocarparts often have a good offer for Exide batteries. I take it you aren't still on flat terminals, they are normally more money than round terminal batteries.
  14. I have some 30 year old Yokohama's, 235/55/13, NOS, stored in a cellar, in the past couple of years, l have had a couple of blow outs, both on quality tyres, change of underwear needed, both tyres 2018, so what's going on there, yours are probably made of real rubber and will be fine and hopefully my Yoko's will be the same. What are the rims off? They look good.
  15. I may do that, don't like getting short changed!!!!
  16. This is the paint, one can failed, ie it ran out of pressure before the can was empty, but at £1.99, it wasn't the end of the world!!
  17. Your paint looks a mile deep, what an excellent Mklll.
  18. As Steve above, l have removed rear axles from mk4s and 5s on the driveway, with just a jack and axle stands, straight forward and safe. I must admit to jacking my wife's Mercedes on the towbar, better than the stupid plastic jacking pads on the sills, but that isn't very old. Estates are very easy to kink, IMO, not worth risking it with the block and chain, but your car. What model is your estate, do have a passion for long roof Ford's, especially a Mk5.
  19. I have been in engineering all my life and look at many things too cynically, l myself wouldn't use those points, unless l had an exceptional shell, it's not what those fixing points were designed for. On Mkllls, lVs and Vs, the bumper irons go into the chassis, which is a lot better than Mk 1s and 2s. I would look at rear or front spring hanger points and front cross member bolt holes, or engine mounting area as you have already suggested, if your shell is weak in a few points, you will stress it, and it will only be when it is off the jig that you will know if it has twisted or distorted, or just cut out small sections at a time and repair. If you are making a jig from scratch, it may as well be a good design and to suit your purpose, l would still put bracing tags everywhere that you can, prior to shell going on any jig, not trying to teach any one to suck eggs, fabrication and distortion has been with me since l was 16, working to very tight tolerances, l have made plenty of mistakes along the way, but a set of bottles and a grinder normally fix most cock ups in fabrication, not do easy with a car body shell though!!!
  20. It's from "Home Bargains", I'm in Staffs, seems to be a fair few around us, the Poundland aerosols in the past have been decent, but recently, very thinned down and inconsistent results, so gave these a try, but you can only dust it on, if you hammer it on, it won't dry, tried it on a scrap item first. I'll take a pic of the cans later, so you know what l used.
  21. Go to your local steel supplier, see what they have off the shelf, where l am there are a fair few steel stock holders that even in the current climate will let you have a look around and have a measure up. Also with steel tubing and boxing, there is usually an internal seam that has to be allowed for. On a similar note, don't have it too good an interference fit as you may have a build up of tolerances, ie it won't slide. I too would not want to hang a car off the mentioned fixing points, a recipe for disaster springs to mind, where are you located?
  22. Don't think there is much difference in the filler, other than it is more expensive, l do use a fair bit of UPOL Fantastic and that is as its name suggests, fantastic!!!, you do get what you pay for!! That's why l was really surprised by what the results were from the cans, l did expect orange peel and a poor finish, there was a plan B, but not required.
  23. £1.99 a tin, only used 4 tins of primer and 6 tins of gloss, all the other materials l already had.
  24. Just done a cheap and cheerful resto on a set of battered JCW Mini alloys, 260bhp and a tendency to torque steer, it's a recipe for disaster. All four sanded down, some wheel filler, primered up and glossed for less than £20.00, the primer and the gloss black requires good drying time between coats, but the actual finish is pretty good for a rattle can cheapo job. Oh paint is meant to be anti crackle or something like that, don't believe what it sais on the tin, l did get one that reacted!!
  25. None on my GT Savage, but would it handle better, if it had them?
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