Respray tips wanted for first-timer know-nothing

[AndyGriff 0]

I resprayed my Mk3 last week and the results were much as I expected given that I'm a first-time resprayer, i.e. pretty well 100% orange peel :(

 

After this step, though, all the advice from internet-based DIY paint job tutorials seems to conflict with regards to what grade of sandpaper and polishing compound to use.

 

I've sanded the whole car with 600 grit wet-or-dry paper, which has pretty much removed the worst of the orange peel. However, I'm a bit worried about getting it wrong with compound. I bought a few tubes of Halfords "Rubbing Compound" which I assumed to be equivalent to G3. I also bought a couple of tubes of G6 through eBay, and I have a 1 litre tub of G10. I later read that G6 is for fully-cured paintwork, though, and the Halfords stuff seems to be even more coarse than this.

 

I'm confused. What should my next step be? Should I sand with 1200 and then 1500-grit paper, then go straight to G10, or should I buy some proper G3?

[V8IAN 0]

guide coat, 1200, guide coat then 1500, them compounds of lessening grit, untill you can see your face in the paint,

[hellblue 0]

What paint have you used ?? if youve used a 2 pack type you will need to mop it to get the final shine, if you have used 600 you will have you work cut out getting all the scratches out !,but yes 1200 1500 & even 2000 & loads of soap in the water,then if you have not gone through to the primer yet give it a mop with G3 (i only use G3) if you used celly take it easy with the mop & keep it moving as it will burn faster than 2K paints! (or just do celly by hand)

[AndyGriff 0]

Thanks for the tips, folks.

 

It's cellulose and I used 600 because of the severity of the orange peel. I followed that with 800 and I've just started on the 1200 -- I've done the boot lid so far and it's beginning to come up OK now. I don't necessarily want a spotless mirror finish because my car is not -- and never will be -- up to show standards, but I would like it to look tidy.

 

I went through to the primer on one door edge :winner: and I'm a little worried that I'll end up with very, very little paint left on the car once I've got it completely smoothed out.

 

Is G10 worth bothering with, incidentally?

[richard 2509 0]

Thanks for the tips, folks.

 

It's cellulose and I used 600 because of the severity of the orange peel. I followed that with 800 and I've just started on the 1200 -- I've done the boot lid so far and it's beginning to come up OK now. I don't necessarily want a spotless mirror finish because my car is not -- and never will be -- up to show standards, but I would like it to look tidy.

 

I went through to the primer on one door edge :cheers: and I'm a little worried that I'll end up with very, very little paint left on the car once I've got it completely smoothed out.

 

Is G10 worth bothering with, incidentally?

blast!! just got back from hols and could have saved you loads of work!!!!! what you needed to do was flat your orange peely paintwork with 1000 grit discs on an interpad then wet flat it with 3000 discs all on your da sander then you could polish it with rapid grade farecla compound using a power mop----job done. all these bits and pieces are available on the internet by the way....

[AndyGriff 0]

Never mind; I'll know in future :cheers: I've not actually finished yet though. In fact, I haven't done anything since going over with 800 paper. I'll need to get it finished in the next week though -- I can't be going to no Classic Ford Show with shoddy paintwork! People might laugh.

 

G6 is rapid-grade isn't it? I thought that was only for fully-cured paint, or am I mistaken?

[richard 2509 0]

Never mind; I'll know in future :cheers: I've not actually finished yet though. In fact, I haven't done anything since going over with 800 paper. I'll need to get it finished in the next week though -- I can't be going to no Classic Ford Show with shoddy paintwork! People might laugh.

 

G6 is rapid-grade isn't it? I thought that was only for fully-cured paint, or am I mistaken?

i paint using 2k hs lacquers at home in the garage. its dry enough the next day for the aforementioned flatting routine and a polish with g6 which is as you rightly say rapid grade.you will notice if your paint is not "fully cured" as it will need polishing again a few days later as it cures back. it will look dull and patchy. if you are leaving it till next week then it will be cured definately by then. good luck.

[AndyGriff 0]

Right, I managed to finish (sort of) compounding at the weekend. I finished going over with 1200-grit paper, then did it with 1500. After that, I used G3 paste, then G10. (I was still a bit wary of the G6 as I'm not sure it was fully cured. The paint still smelled a little bit.)

 

Here is the finished product. Sorry about the bad light:

 

 

HOWEVER...

 

Right at the final hurdle, I made a cock-up, in hindsight. Saturday was a hot day and I don't think I rinsed off the G10 paste in time; consequently there are nasty smears on various parts of the car, most noticably on the bonnet and the top of the front wings, i.e. where it wouldn't have run off of its own accord very easily, and the worst possible place for the overall presentation of the car. I'm pretty sure it hasn't damaged the actual paintwork as I can scratch the residue off gently with my fingernail, but I can't do that with the whole car. See below:

 

 

Also, I used a lambswool bonnet with the G10, something I remember reading being a good idea on an online tutorial. This seems to have left similar residue in one or two places. (I don't think it's burnt the paintwork due to polishing in one area too long -- I was careful not to do that.)

 

Any ideas how I could get this off with relative ease? Your suggestions would be very much appreciated!

Edited June 4, 2007 by AndyGriff

[richard 2509 0]

righto....when you say you can scratch the marks off gently then it sounds like its just a residue left on the surface. did you use water ( sparingly ) with the compound?...also you have to clean the mophead quite regularly as it gets clogged up with excess compound....just run it and use your fingers on it...to get the residue of just go over it again with the polisher and a drop of clean water...dont do it in bright sunlight....if youve burnt thru you will soon notice as it damages the paint surface..you are more likely to go thru on edges and swage lines....the job looks nice in the pics by the way.....

[AndyGriff 0]

Thanks Richard -- that's quite reassuring. I did use water with the compound, lots of it in fact. (Maybe too much, from what you say?) I did clean the mop head regularly, or so I thought. Maybe I didn't do it enough. I'll do as you say and give it another going over with just water. Do you reckon I should use the lambswool mop head for this or the sponge one?

 

I'm only mildly annoyed by the residue, I have to say. My hopes were not high given that this was my first attempt at a respray ever, and the end result is better than what was there before, which is all I really hoped for and expected. Hopefully it'll be even better when I've got the residue off and then wax it, which I gather I shouldn't even think about for at least another few weeks. (I did go through on one or two edges when sanding, unfortunately, but you learn from your mistakes and all that...)

[richard 2509 0]

Thanks Richard -- that's quite reassuring. I did use water with the compound, lots of it in fact. (Maybe too much, from what you say?) I did clean the mop head regularly, or so I thought. Maybe I didn't do it enough. I'll do as you say and give it another going over with just water. Do you reckon I should use the lambswool mop head for this or the sponge one?

 

I'm only mildly annoyed by the residue, I have to say. My hopes were not high given that this was my first attempt at a respray ever, and the end result is better than what was there before, which is all I really hoped for and expected. Hopefully it'll be even better when I've got the residue off and then wax it, which I gather I shouldn't even think about for at least another few weeks. (I did go through on one or two edges when sanding, unfortunately, but you learn from your mistakes and all that...)

use the lambswool, drop of clean water and if it doesnt shift it a drop of compound. its ok to wax it when you are happy with the finish, i use autoglym resin polish as it is not "agressive" like some waxes......by which i mean it doesnt "cut" the surface....for a first time repaint it looks great!!!

[AndyGriff 0]

Thanks again Richard -- hopefully I'll be able to find time to try that before Saturday. :rolleyes: