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Nice one graham, keep those pics coming! :thumbup:

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mk4/5 bakkie was avl with 3.0 Essex , mk3 only had the 2.5 version in the facelift.

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Had to move it to a friends orchard for a while as I have sold my house where it was stored in the garage .

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mk4/5 bakkie was avl with 3.0 Essex , mk3 only had the 2.5 version in the facelift.

 

This may have the 3.5 Essex I brought some years ago still in its crate from SA . Not sure if it will fit with the exsisting sump on it ,its a 3.5 because of the long crank .

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On the move again , the bed has gone over to a my mate Jamie who is doing welding. The truck is now in my front garden as I had to move it from the orchard .

 

So while I've got a hour to kill thought I'll take the fuel tank off .....manage to take the 3 nut/bolts off towards the rear tank no problem , but the 10mm nut/bolts at the front trapped between the tank and the cab are a .er. I can get a 10mm spanner on the nut ok but I just about can get a socket on the bolt but cannot grip it properly to turn it it keeps slipping off .

 

Any ideas Tony ?

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Nice one graham, keep those pics coming! :thumbup:

 

Not many photo at the moment Jim, this is how far I got with constantly moving from pillar to post and being busy .

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On the move again , the bed has gone over to a my mate Jamie who is doing welding. The truck is now in my front garden as I had to move it from the orchard .

 

So while I've got a hour to kill thought I'll take the fuel tank off .....manage to take the 3 nut/bolts off towards the rear tank no problem , but the 10mm nut/bolts at the front trapped between the tank and the cab are a .er. I can get a 10mm spanner on the nut ok but I just about can get a socket on the bolt but cannot grip it properly to turn it it keeps slipping off .

 

Any ideas Tony ?

 

I do remember that I had trouble too if that's any help lmao. I think I had to use my small socket set.

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You don't need to undo those bolts from above Graham, they attach to a bracket which then bolts to the chassis which you can access from underneath. (see picture).

 

 

 

 

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if its a rear well sump then should clear.

you'll need a 3.0 capri diff/axle or you'll just get smoke & noise!

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You don't need to undo those bolts from above Graham, they attach to a bracket which then bolts to the chassis which you can access from underneath. (see picture).

 

 

 

 

006%208_zpsdnzvpv7r.jpg

 

That's great help Martin :thumbup:

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if its a rear well sump then should clear.

you'll need a 3.0 capri diff/axle or you'll just get smoke & noise!

 

Its a front well sump Craig . and yes I be looking to change the ratio to 3.09 same as the XR

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the capri/Granada (Essex) sump will clear.

 

those 3.4 engs where for use in the mazda pick range which is prob why its got a front well.

does it have the efi inlet manifold too?

Edited by sheffieldcortinacentre

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the capri/Granada (Essex) sump will clear.

 

those 3.4 engs where for use in the mazda pick range which is prob why its got a front well.

does it have the efi inlet manifold too?

 

Don't think so Craig think its a standard inlet .....what does a efi inlet look like ?

 

If that just the case of just changing the sumps that'll be ok , to tell you the truth I haven't looked that far ahead about dropping the lump in , I have a spare sub frame which I had powder coat and gradually building that up .

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Don't think so Craig think its a standard inlet .....what does a efi inlet look like ?

 

If that just the case of just changing the sumps that'll be ok , to tell you the truth I haven't looked that far ahead about dropping the lump in , I have a spare sub frame which I had powder coat and gradually building that up .

 

If you change from front to rear bowl sump or vice versa you have to change where the dip stick and oil pick up pipe go too , not sure about your engine but on normal Essex thats front panel to change and blank off the other dip stick hole

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