Coils

[G.O 17]

I know that coils get warm during use, but how warm is too warm? :sofa:

Edited April 2, 2009 by G.O

[R1.Andy 1]

f.in hot hot they can get..but no doubt i will be corrected

[G.O 17]

f.in hot hot they can get..but no doubt i will be corrected

hmmm I could be worrying about nothing then if its f.in hot! :sofa:

 

I've never really paid too much attention to them up to now, and certainly the one I've just taken off much have got pretty hot looking at the state of the lead and the lead socket in the coil, but the one I've replaced it with seemed to get very hot very quickly. It doesn't helpy that I'm not entirely sure what coil I should have on there - as per original it should be a 1.5 ohm one, but while the coil wire has had an extension added to it (needs to be on oppersite side for pinto) a great chunk of the original (ballast resistor) wire had to be chopped out due to previous damage.

[Lotuscops 80]

I'm not sure of my facts here but I am sure someone posted an item about coils overheating when mounted upside down or at an angle as the oil inside wasn't covering / cooling the internal wiring...

[G.O 17]

I'm not sure of my facts here but I am sure someone posted an item about coils overheating when mounted upside down or at an angle as the oil inside wasn't covering / cooling the internal wiring...

yeah, I think you're right. Its something that I heard many years ago too, but its not the case here - this is mounted upright

[MLI 8]

I believe the original Mk2 coils operate at 9 Volts, with 12Volts under starting?

So, if you were to feed it with 12Volt constantly, I guess it could get very hot indeed (not worth being around them when they explode...)

[G.O 17]

interesting thought there Magnus - I guess they would get pretty hot with a constant 12v going to them. I've done nothing that would have changed that though - as said above, the coil supply wire had a damage length removed, before being extended over to the other side of the engine bay. Also, how long would it take a coil to fail? I've done over 9000 miles since tis been back on the road, including a trip to scotland and another to trip to the middle of France - in other words its done a great many miles at high speed for long periods

[S1ReDR 0]

I changed mine a while back as it started to weep oil from the top seam , they always seem to run quite hot.

[Tony Webster 28]

They do run "Warm" (its what they do, apart from providing an H.T. spark) ... Then there is the "Modern way", aka Coils mounted directly on to the Plugs and into the Head .... They get HOT, darn Hot ...... :drool: They fail eventually (of course) but, as I've said its the "Modern way .." and at Thirty quid each and upwards .... In my experience, however ... If you have a "Voltage / Resistance" issue, the first signs of failure (something wrong) is the Ignition points ... they burn out with monotonous regularity, no more than a few Hundred Miles, per set .... That Coil position by the way, ideally ... "Upside down" this ensures that all the "Windings" and terminals are cooled by the oil within, and the "Air bubble" is on the bottom (at the top) if you follow .... Works well until the "Top" leaks ... :winner: I know ... I'll get my coat ... :toilet:

[the-ford-cortina.com 226]

I believe the original Mk2 coils operate at 9 Volts, with 12Volts under starting?

So, if you were to feed it with 12Volt constantly, I guess it could get very hot indeed (not worth being around them when they explode...)

 

 

HMMMM they could get hotter with a constant 12v feed but it would be the ampage current that would be causing the extra heat not the actual voltage.... :winner:

[Tony Webster 28]

I believe the original Mk2 coils operate at 9 Volts, with 12Volts under starting?

So, if you were to feed it with 12Volt constantly, I guess it could get very hot indeed (not worth being around them when they explode...)

 

 

HMMMM they could get hotter with a constant 12v feed but it would be the ampage current that would be causing the extra heat not the actual voltage.... :winner:

 

Yes its the amperage ... (If, I remember OHMS law properly ...) .... Voltage, is in there too, though ! :toilet:

[S1ReDR 0]

all the "Windings" and terminals are cooled by the oil within, and the "Air bubble" is on the bottom (at the top) if you follow .... Works well until the "Top" leaks ... :toilet: I know ... I'll get my coat ... :drool:

 

Tony , its a good job you have taste in old cars , if you were talking about Marinas or Allegros there would be no excuse ! :winner:

[hellblue 0]

If in doubt about the voltage then replace the coil with a 12v coil & feed it with 12volts, also you can get coils for points & electronic ignition's you May need to change the coil to the type of ignition you run an old points coil can get to hot to hold !! with electronic ign. if your using electronic check which you should have

I know the mount the coil up this way or that way thing but i think most coils these days have that much oil in them it would'nt make that much difference

[G.O 17]

Thanks guys, some helpful pointers there.

 

Instead of the points and condensor, I'm running an ignitor electronic ignition unit, and upto now, thats been mated with the Aldon recomended "flame thrower" coil. Its now hooked up with the Lucas sports coil DLB110 that I ran on my LC, also with an ignitor unit.....

[MLI 8]

Aren't both the "flame thrower" coil and the Lucas sports coil DLB110 supposed to run on 12V all the time?

(i.e. you need to run a new "no resistance" wire from the ignition?)

Edited April 5, 2009 by MLI