Coils

[G.O 17]

Thanks for the ideas there Magnus. I can't tell you what the voltage is under cranking (was by myself when I had the meter out), but its a very strong 12V supply when running. I can only assume that the 9V reading I got with just the ignition turned on is either wrong, or its just a lower voltage due to other things running - I don't think the heater fan was on, but ignition light, door lights, coil, ignitor, etc must all take something out..... I'm not too worried overall at that side of things though as its always been, indeed still is, a very good starter with this set up.

 

I've been out there again this afternoon. Fitted a new rotor first of all and then had a ride out. Seemed to drive a little stronger than before but the coil still seemed a bit on the warm side, so having let things cool down I set to to fit a new cap, only to find this on No1 lead

 

 

 

 

Now that can't really be helping matters can it? :thumbup: ;)

 

Found myself another old lead I had lying around and went for another drive. So very much better, but somehow still not right. Coil still getting warm, but don't think its as warm as before :D Maybe getting the nice new and very fat leads I ordered fitted will sort things - if they ever turn up!

 

Anyway, decided to chance it and take it to the pub meet tonight

[G.O 17]

Anyway, decided to chance it and take it to the pub meet tonight

 

spoke too soon - have now found an oil leak somewhere around the oil pressure pipe and switch - this is turning into a great learning exercise in how to really hate an old car :D

[V8IAN 0]

if you are going to have a coil, get a big boys coil in the cortina.!!!!!! as it happens I have been fitting them today

 

 

 

 

 

[G.O 17]

wots one of them there then? :thumbup:

[MLI 8]

Graham, you said earlier that you were now using the Lucas DLB110 coil from the Lotus.

Looks like this coil is meant to be used together with a ballast:

"A high performance 12V Lucas ignition coil for use with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor (part no. 060703). Allows plug gap to be increased for better combustion which gives better performance and economy."

(from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/99 )

See also the other Lucas coils on http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/21

[G.O 17]

thanks for the Magnus, that certainly goes along with what I found when the DLB110 was fitted - it got very hot very quickly so the 3ohm flame thrower is back on again. I thought I'd cracked it the other day - and new set of plugs and leads had the coil tempterature very much reduced but it still ran very badly out on the motorway, and a trip out yesterday had the coil temperature right back up again. Still a couple of other things I need to check (engine earth strap for example) but I'm fast running out of ideas now :thumbup:

 

The MOT is also due, so busy busy busy.....

[MLI 8]

Try hotwiring it with 12V straight from the battery to the coil, to see if the change to constant 12V (non-ballasted) makes a change, pluss that will bypass the ignition switch as well (which could also be faulty).

[petermac 5]

Hello graham,been following this thread and giving it some thought as it sounded like a similar problem i had,(faulty coil),but i think

your probem may lie in your electronic points.The reason i'm thinking this is the 9v supply you are getting when not running, i'll try and explain,

if your getting 9v between coil+ terminal and battery earth then its likely a faulty ignition switch or a resister wire (ballast wire) in the ignition cicuit,

if you get 12v between coil+ and battery earth then coil should be a 12v non ballasted type,Hope this makes sense so far :superman: ,now here's

my 2 pennith (lancashire term).If you get 9v between coil + and - terminals with engine not running (should be 0v unless points closed) and 12v between coil + and battery earth then it may be that the electronic switch in the dizzy is not switching on and off as it should.I'm not too sure how they work whether it's a micoswitch or mini electronic relay but if its allowing 9v to pass thru when the points are open this could be a reason for your coil getting very hot and

overheating as it will always be partially on and so gets hotter than when switched on and off if you get my drift,and also poor running. if possible i would change the electronic module in the dizzy back to a points and condenser set-up and you deffinatley need some new leads and dizzy cap and correct voltage coil and just try it.Anyway off for a lie down now as my head hurts :bleh: good luck peter

 

 

disclaimer

This may just be a total load of crap

[G.O 17]

Thanks for the suggestion there Peter :lol:

 

I'm begining to think theres more to what you're saying that any of us had previously thought going on some other info I found on a google search - now have a couple of ideas I need to try...