Temp gauge not working

[Derskine 11]

My temp gauge has never worked, with either of the engines, I tried both of the original senders that were on the engines, and also bought a new one, I can get the gauge to go to its highest point by shorting the wire to earth, however, it's frustrating because it doesn't seem to work, any advice on testing it?

[Steve E 0]

That is how you test the sender but it could be the voltage stabiliser on the back of the dash if MK1's have them :headscratch:

[John Mack 292]

If you've shorted the wire to earth and the gauge goes up then you've tested everything except the sender, as you've got a new sender(assuming it isn't faulty) then maybe your cooling system has an issue ? Jammed open t'stat would be the best outcome.

Just my thoughts.

John.

[Derskine 11]

If you've shorted the wire to earth and the gauge goes up then you've tested everything except the sender, as you've got a new sender(assuming it isn't faulty) then maybe your cooling system has an issue ? Jammed open t'stat would be the best outcome.

Just my thoughts.

John.

 

Thermostat is brand new! radiator top pipe gets hot and the lower pipe is cooler, so I assume its probably working? Its very confusing

Doesn't have a voltage stabiliser - have done an alternator conversion so it's no longer needed

[Steve E 0]

Thermostat is brand new! radiator top pipe gets hot and the lower pipe is cooler, so I assume its probably working? Its very confusing

Doesn't have a voltage stabiliser - have done an alternator conversion so it's no longer needed

 

 

Are you getting that confused with the Voltage Regulator on the inner wing for the Dynamo?

 

The circuit will be something like this

[sheffieldcortinacentre 635]

thats the chargeing regulater.

voltage stabilieser is on back of clocks.

[Steve E 0]

This is more like the ford system

 

[Derskine 11]

This is more like the ford system

 

 

Will take a look at this, thanks!

Perhaps best to just buy a new stabiliser, the alternator light is dodgy too (if they're controlled the same way).

Fuel gauge works fine though

Edited May 9, 2012 by Steelrax

[Steve E 0]

Fuel and Temp are linked via the stabiliser usually so thats a puzzler

What colour plastic is on the sender unit? they have to match

[Derskine 11]

Sender is showing resistance when the engine was ran for a bit (293 ohms), I can't think why it won't work, unless the gauge is broken of course.

Would the stabiliser cause these symptoms?

[Steve E 0]

It could well do but I would have thought you would get a problem with your fuel gauge

You need to have approx 10 Volt coming out of it not 12V

[Derskine 11]

It could well do but I would have thought you would get a problem with your fuel gauge

You need to have approx 10 Volt coming out of it not 12V

 

 

Today I connect a voltmeter to the female spade terminal on the wire that goes to the sender and then connected the other terminal of the voltmeter to the battery - the voltage was anywhere between 0.1-5V, kept going up and down.

 

Edit - it also peaked over 5v briefly.

Edited May 14, 2012 by Steelrax

[Derskine 11]

Today I connect a voltmeter to the female spade terminal on the wire that goes to the sender and then connected the other terminal of the voltmeter to the battery - the voltage was anywhere between 0.1-5V, kept going up and down.

I took the gauges out and then put one of the voltmeter terinals to each of the wires on the back of the temp gauge, at first it said 14V, but I haven't been able to get any voltage after that, just says 0V.

 

 

Ps aeroflow mk1s use 5V instruments

[Steve E 0]

Sounds like its working ok then

 

DO you know a club member or someone on here that has a sender that definately works that you can try?

[Derskine 11]

Sounds like its working ok then

 

DO you know a club member or someone on here that has a sender that definately works that you can try?

 

Sadly no one around here, the sender should be working though, it shows 1200+ resistance when cold and drops towards zero when the car is hot, is that right?