Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 19, 2013 Here is the latest update, Jacking point in and spare wheel lower section, also finished off the end of the sill. here are some pics... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ludsonline 0 Posted October 19, 2013 (edited) I find it strange how the re-manufactured parts are radiused on the bottom edge as the originals were square edged.. I thought expressed would have been able to do that... Top work again Dave ;) Edited October 19, 2013 by ludsonline Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 19, 2013 I find it strange how the re-manufactured parts are radiused on the bottom edge as the originals were square edged.. I thought expressed would have been able to do that... Top work again Dave ;) I know what you mean, was tempted to hammer a tighter fold but thought, :unsure: no leave it.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 20, 2013 (edited) Removed a bit more of the under seal, I find this very therapeutic (sad I know, well the wife thinks so:wife: ) Very pleased with the spring mounts and the front chassis leg to front panel, no rust at all, this is definitely due to the car being Ziebart rust proofed when new. if this was done to all the cars would there be more Mk1s left? who knows. Does anyone know if this plate at the end of both front chassis legs was a Ford recall as the plates look like they have been punched out and it seems that they were done when the car was new. I'm sure there is a Mk1 font of all knowledge out there..B) Edited October 20, 2013 by Downstairs Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Messer 2 Posted October 20, 2013 (edited) Hi Dave I'm sure you are going to do this anyway but make sure that the captive nuts for the cross member and anti roll bar mounts are good before painting it ! A mistake I made which I had to deal with after paint! Keep up the good work can't wait to see how this one turns out Edited October 20, 2013 by Messer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve 5 Posted October 20, 2013 Do you mean the roll bar cut out or that plate? I welded m10 stainless nuts in mine ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 20, 2013 Hi Dave I'm sure you are going to do this anyway but make sure that the captive nuts for the cross member and anti roll bar mounts are good before painting it ! A mistake I made which I had to deal with after paint! Keep up the good work can't wait to see how this one turns out I've been there too, learnt that one the hard way. I use the foam paint plugs, collected loads of them when I worked at McLaren, and another tip, always run a tap through the threads makes it a lot easier when putting the car back together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Messer 2 Posted October 20, 2013 (edited) Sorry, I didn't mean that - I meant that they are in good ccondition and not weak inside the rails - a lot of people have had to rectify this by welding in new nuts Edited October 20, 2013 by Messer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 20, 2013 Sorry, I didn't mean that - I meant that they are in good ccondition and not weak inside the rails - a lot of people have had to rectify this by welding in new nuts Many thanks for the info, I will definitely test them, This even happens on new cars.:thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chelseablue 17 Posted October 21, 2013 Removed a bit more of the under seal, I find this very therapeutic (sad I know, well the wife thinks so:wife: ) Very pleased with the spring mounts and the front chassis leg to front panel, no rust at all, this is definitely due to the car being Ziebart rust proofed when new. if this was done to all the cars would there be more Mk1s left? who knows. Does anyone know if this plate at the end of both front chassis legs was a Ford recall as the plates look like they have been punched out and it seems that they were done when the car was new. I'm sure there is a Mk1 font of all knowledge out there..B) If you mean the plate behind what I take to be your bumper iron, then this was part of an original front panel, it was spot welded on, yours looks like it's been repaired at a later date perhaps for an MOT, both ends of the chassis leg were prone to rusting and many have been repaired in this way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 21, 2013 (edited) If you mean the plate behind what I take to be your bumper iron, then this was part of an original front panel, it was spot welded on, yours looks like it's been repaired at a later date perhaps for an MOT, both ends of the chassis leg were prone to rusting and many have been repaired in this way Many thanks for the info, very helpful :thumbup: Edited October 21, 2013 by Downstairs Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ludsonline 0 Posted October 22, 2013 I can see the area you mean now Dave, Very common rust area on all 60's Fords. A horror area for rust.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 23, 2013 Won A pair of airflow rear C pillar trim covers and a pair of Lotus vents (sure there the same as a super and GT) off eBay. Cleaned them up and no rust, Result! :thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Downstairs Dave 37 Posted October 26, 2013 Well all the underseal is off, what a job!.......must added a ton of weight on these cars.:showoff: back to welding next week:rolleyes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rsvmk1 2 Posted October 26, 2013 Horrible job out of the way! Looks very sound Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
