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Downstairs Dave

Mk1 GT Resto/2 door conversion

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brilliant conversion ....just read all of it! love a 2 door conversion! :rolleyes:

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WOW some top quality work going on here :thumbup: my only gripe is youve used a genuine gt, would have been nice to have seen this restored back to original and a standard 4 door converted to 2 door.

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I think most people on here if they had the skill would love to convert there more door to a 2 door, even if it was a genuine GT, cos let's face it 2 doors look sooo right on a Mk1, :thumbup: :thumbup: Keep up the excellent work.

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WOW some top quality work going on here :thumbup: my only gripe is youve used a genuine gt, would have been nice to have seen this restored back to original and a standard 4 door converted to 2 door.

 

I know where you are coming from, but bear in mind I only bought the shell and trying to get all the bits would have cost a fortune, that's without thinking of GT steering box, gauges etc. which seem to go for a fortune thanks to the Lotus boys... But you never know if in the future they start to make obscene money then it wouldn't take much to put it back to original :rolleyes:

Edited by Downstairs Dave

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trying to get all the bits would have cost a fortune

Thats true, i though you had a complete car(and stripped it) sorry.

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Had a good sort out in the garage and extricated the engine and gearbox from under the bench ready for offering up in the engine bay.

 

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Next job was the making of the rear subframe jig...

 

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First part of the jig is made on my steel bench so that the wishbone and diff mount positions are all correct, when this is done I will then mount it onto the car, this will enable me to make the rest of the sub frame. as I've mentioned before this set up will be a bolt in item as I want to make these in kit form so I can then sell them. I also want it to be a one day job fitting it to the car (four drilled holes only).

 

Next part is to mount the jig to the car, using the Ford Body Tolerance Chart to gain the rear axle centre line.

 

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Using a good straight edge I then clamped it to the front chassis legs lining it up with the cross member mounting holes...

 

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Then clamping a tape measure to the straight edge in the centre to the back of the car..

 

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The wheelbase is 98" plus 35/64"

 

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Another nice touch is the gearbox, seems the gear-lever is a separate item mounted on top of the tail housing and can be shortened and mounted forward so looks like I wont have to chop into the centre cross member,,,,, Result...:rolleyes:

 

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Thats true, i though you had a complete car(and stripped it) sorry.

 

You don't need to say sorry.:thumbup:

Edited by Downstairs Dave

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been following this thread, looking forward to the next stage, keep up the good work, collecting a few parts for mine got to fetch an 8'' on tuesday al ready have front ready just need nissan 200sx and i should be ready

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Are you going to build a custom subframe to use the stock Mazda stuff?. Will be watching the progress ;)

 

Yep, I will be narrowing the drive shafts an making custom wishbones, these will incorporate rose joints for adjustment and Poly Bushes.:rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

 

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Put the engine in the engine bay tonight as I want to fix it in position by way of a bespoke cradle, this will bolt in place via the anti roll bar mounts and the steering box and idler arm bolt holes. this will enable me to spin the car round 360 degrees so I can make engine mounts and it will also make it easier to make sure the gearbox has clearance i.e. if I have to cut the tunnel and also make the gearbox mount.

 

38868BF9-BF9A-4B29-946D-87347B45E86E_zps5olc6vp6.jpg554AF5EB-57E1-478E-BBC2-9BCA035DAC4E_zpsvukioz5z.jpg

 

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The job of manoeuvring the engine and raising and lowering is made so much easier using a hydraulic table, this tool is normally used for putting in heavy cookers into kitchen units..ideal for moving engines around..:rolleyes:2455EB09-62B1-491D-9C98-9D2774AF2BD2_zpsll1nnixw.jpg

 

one slight problem is the camshaft electronic pick up, seems to interfere with the heater plenum, so I will have to do a little metal removal along with the drain tube. this will enable me to move the engine as far back as possible.

 

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I will also have to remake the temperature pickup casting as this also interferes with the bulkhead, this can be replaced with a flat plate as it is also the heater outlet, there will be no heater in the car. hopefully there is a nice blanked off hole in the head that I can relocate the temp sender.56742B7D-A08F-4B3A-9EE7-0C901036E43F_zpskpsfiodq.jpg

 

Coil packs will also have to be relocated (note the numbering on the leads and bracket) makes life so much easier.:rolleyes:

 

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Sump should clear cross member as I will be using the Alachi unit with World Cup engine mounts. Note the numerous mounting holes on the side of the block. Japs think of everything!!.:rolleyes::thumbup:

Edited by Downstairs Dave

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Hi Dave,

Have you thought about using the Mazda front suspensions aswell?.

 

Change of plan, too much work to install, going to use the Rally Design Mk1 Escort with a few mods.:rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

 

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Built the cradle for the engine, this enables me to revolve the shell....Makes life a lot easier::showoff:C152C9EA-503B-41CE-972D-C16EF757FC81_zpsnamr5es5.jpg

 

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Next job is to get the gearbox in...:rolleyes:

Edited by Downstairs Dave

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