westie289 0 Posted December 4, 2013 Hi, my mk5 is being a right pain at the moment. It starts up fine, warms up put my foot on the brake and it cuts out. On Tickover she runs really lumpy, come to a junction engine judders and cuts out. Checked vacuum pipe, that's okay, checked timing and that's okay too. Had new condenser, plugs, leads ect about 6 months ago. Also ticks over fine in park, but if I put it in reverse or drive the revs drop right down and it cuts out? :( Anyone else had a problem like this or could point me on the right direction please? Thanks in advance guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
consul315 180 Posted December 4, 2013 have you cleaned/blown through the idle jet? :headscratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nang 2 Posted December 4, 2013 Hi, my mk5 is being a right pain at the moment. It starts up fine, warms up put my foot on the brake and it cuts out. Wonder if your brake booster has a vacuum leak ? Is the brake pedal hard or does the booster appear to work ? Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 4, 2013 have you cleaned/blown through the idle jet? :headscratch: Nope I haven't done that, i was wondering if it was something to do with the car but I'm not sure :/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 4, 2013 Wonder if your brake booster has a vacuum leak ? Is the brake pedal hard or does the booster appear to work ? Tony. Nope brake feels fine, there is a vacuum pipe that come from the auto gearbox, I have changed that pipe as it was brittle and hard. No change :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 748 Posted December 4, 2013 check the breather pipe hasn't split & that valve on end is free & a good fit in the canister (in block under inlet manifold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra3dr 53 Posted December 5, 2013 Checked vacuum pipe, that's okay I would change that,splits can never be seen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 6, 2013 I would change that,splits can never be seen I have cos it was quite brittle but still no change :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra3dr 53 Posted December 6, 2013 Would I have it correct that it only does when the engine is under load? And this is an automatic I surmise. Perhaps the dizzy weights aren't working. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 9, 2013 Would I have it correct that it only does when the engine is under load? And this is an automatic I surmise. Perhaps the dizzy weights aren't working. Nope, runs like poo all the time. Revs drop dramatically once put into drive, and cuts out. A friend is having a look at it for me on Wednesday. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RT 1006 137 Posted December 13, 2013 have you cleaned/blown through the idle jet? :headscratch: I’ve just had similar problems with my Mk5 2.0 with twin choke weber (32/36DGAV). Engine running rough and not idling properly/erratic idling. Checked extensively for air leaks around the carb and inlet manifold but couldn’t find any so ruled that out as a possible cause. Took the carb off and did a complete strip down and clean, blew through all the internal galleries, jets and emulsion tubes with compressed air before putting everything back. Turned out the idle jets were partly blocked so it was running on main jets hence the poor idling. The difference was remarkable, engine ran like a new car afterwards. Carburetors are often seen as some sort of black art which have people running scared and frightened to go anywhere near them. There’s absolutely nothing to be worried about, it’s just another mechanical device and provided you take a methodical approach and make sure everything goes back exactly where it came out of you shouldn’t have any problems. Genuine Weber service kits are available for about £25 and contain replacement O seals, and diaphragms etc as well as all the required gaskets. I’m assuming yours is a Weber? If it is it’s easy to work on and there’s a lot of very good information and step by step pictures and instructions on the web regarding the servicing of these carbs. The only problem you might have is if it’s a very high mileage unit and the butterfly spindle is worn where it locates in the carburetor body. If you’ve got excessive wear here then air will be drawn in and no amount of servicing and cleaning the carb will do any good – if this is the case it’s time to look for another one! You should be able to have the carburetor off, stripped down and rebuilt in an afternoon. The problem will be getting at the two mounting bolts closest to the engine. These are very awkward, I had the rocker cover off to check valve clearances at the time, that made access a bit easier. After rebuild you will have to check the mixture to get the correct CO level (should be 2.5%) unless you’ve got your own exhaust gas analyzer take the car down your MOT station and get them to hook it up the their machine and adjust the mixture screw as required. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 16, 2013 Found the problem guys, the breather underneath the manifold has been spat out. According to a friend, the reason it's done that is because where it's been sat up for long periods of time before me, the piston rings have kind of jammed into the piston, and not wiping the oil off the bores, causing it to gunk up, and building up pressure apparently. It's only a short term fix as he said it'll more than likely do it again, as it's still not running 100% but has stopped cutting out at inconvenient times lol. So a new engine is on the cards, or a strip and rebuild. Might be a good excuse to swap for a 2ltr ay ;) thanks for your replies guys, much appreciated :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgo 80 Posted December 16, 2013 (edited) Assume you mean the breather that pushes into the block down by the dipstick tube - if so give it a clean out and check the one-way valve is working. If you have a build-up of "gunk" check your thermostat is working correctly (i.e. the engine is getting up to full temperature) and think about putting some clean oil in Edited December 16, 2013 by dgo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 748 Posted December 16, 2013 check the breather pipe hasn't split & that valve on end is free & a good fit in the canister (in block under inlet manifold. check the rubber seal in canister is a snug fit, compression test to check rings, if thier a bit low try some redex now & again to unstick them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westie289 0 Posted December 17, 2013 Assume you mean the breather that pushes into the block down by the dipstick tube - if so give it a clean out and check the one-way valve is working. If you have a build-up of "gunk" check your thermostat is working correctly (i.e. the engine is getting up to full temperature) and think about putting some clean oil in Yep that's the one, it's been cleaned checked ect. Thermostat is brand new, as it failed a few weeks ago, so I also did coolant flush. And had an oil change about 3000 miles ago, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
