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LagoonBlue

Lagoonblue's MK2 1600 deluxe

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On 12/2/2020 at 8:51 PM, DHV571D said:

Sounds like the same process that made me leave my last job and take early retirement (A decision I do not regret).

 

Good luck for the future, you're obviously a very skilled person so finding work shouldn't be a problem?

Thanks, i think i will but luckily i am not in any rush to do so. Better to have a little breather in the meanwhile. I want to be bored again, it's been a long time since i last was:biggrin:

 

On the Cortina side of things; farming out the remaining work on the bodyshell will still happen but needs to be bumped to somewhere around Q1 or 2 of 2021, too many irons on the fire right now.

Anyhow, i did get a nice part in the mail today.

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It's a boot lock & a pair of keys in near mint condition. No, the keys are not melted, i blurred them on purpose:ph34r:

Not that it matters since the VIN is right there: BA90HA62563 which decodes to;

Ford of Britain

Dagenham

2 Door Standard

March 1968

so should fit my '68 Deluxe like a treat.

Was only 15€ +10€ for P&P, a bargain at twice the price.

 

I know that many cars of this era had the one key system, you know: one key for the door, one for the ignition, one or the boot, one for the glovebox and one for the gas cap:biggrin:

But how is it supposed to be on MK2's? I think it's doors and boot with the same key, Ignition would be it's own and gas cap also if fitted? So two to three keys in total. If so i will need to have the door locks recored (those need to be serviced anyway so not a big deal).

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Yeah you are right,doors and boot same key,ignition and petrol cap different.The euro cars like ours are different as we have ignition on column with steering lock,British cars ignition on dash with no steering lock.I don’t need keys for doors and boot as I could just use a spoon,the locks were really rubbish and got worse with time.Im going to upgrade mine,to something more modern on doors,and have internal boot release 

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3 hours ago, 68 Cortina said:

Yeah you are right,doors and boot same key,ignition and petrol cap different.The euro cars like ours are different as we have ignition on column with steering lock,British cars ignition on dash with no steering lock.I don’t need keys for doors and boot as I could just use a spoon,the locks were really rubbish and got worse with time.Im going to upgrade mine,to something more modern on doors,and have internal boot release 

Thank you! Ah, i forgot about the steering lock. It became mandatory in Finland from 1968 onwards and i suspect in other parts of the EEC too.

My '85 Mazda 626 also has locks that can be opened with anything that fits in the hole, though to be fair pretty much all car locks in general are nothing to write home about. Electronic immobilizer (mandatory in Finland since '98) helps a bit but locks only keep the honest people away.

 

There will be some mods and shenanigans hidden on mine:ph34r: Those are easy to add when refurbishing the wire harness plus something like a HF tracker is always a good investment, can't rely on just GPS these days. Not that theft is a huge issue around here parts but being a bit paranoid does not hurt:sofa1:

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Finally springtime for LagoonBlue! Though it is raining sleet right now but had couple tolerable days to complete a project i started late last year.

I have wanted a parts cleaner for sometime now but why buy something when i can make my own for twice the price :rolleyes:

That said, mine has couple added features not found on the usual cheapos. On to the pics;

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Cleaning fluid lives on the reservoir pot in the middle with a coarse screen filter at the outlet where it is piped to a standard oil filter (biggest i could find on a clearance sale). Drain is located at the low spot. From filter it goes to a sealed magnet drive pump and onto a heat exchanger unit filled with coolant (the white box) which has two 300W lab grade immersion heaters and a 240 series Volvo heater core. From the heater core cleaning fluid goes to bypass and flow valves, on normal operation flow is full on and amount of fluid is controlled by the bypass valve.

 

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Sparky bits be here. Inside the DIN box is 6A breaker, RCD and contactor which is controlled by the E-Stop. Smaller box houses switches for heaters and the pump.

 

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From the backside you can see the quick release for the reservoir pot. Overall capacity when fully primed is about 6-7 Litres.

 

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Lid opened and screen that usually sits on the sink. I can easily change nozzles via the pneumatic fitting.

 

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And a quick test run with some random bike part. Works like a treat :thumbsup:

 

Now to the sketchy part.. I am using kerosene heater fuel as a cleaning fluid which works really good for oily dirt, is cheap and readily available but is (no surprises here) somewhat flammable. So no smoking when using the thing, though that would be hard to do with an (at minimum) A2 rated mask which is a must since the stuff can do some serious harm if inhaled. Not especially explosive so that's a plus.

Time will tell how well the hoses will fare, at least there is no ethanol in the mix. I might add a work light and some exterior panels later on, works good enough for now.

 

Drill and tap set for the oil filter was eye wateringly expensive plus i had to buy valves and some pipe connectors but rest of the bits i scrounged from my vast horde.

I think this will get a fair bit of use when i start messing with my engine parts.

Next up little work on the Cortina itself, i promise :biggrin:

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Well we wouldn’t expect anything less from you,quality work,but bit of a mad scientist 👨‍🔬🙈😂😂😂

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On 4/9/2021 at 6:56 PM, 68 Cortina said:

Well we wouldn’t expect anything less from you,quality work,but bit of a mad scientist 👨‍🔬🙈😂😂😂

 

Thank you! Do not know about the scientist part but definitely mad:biggrin:

 

Bought me my (i think) fifth rear axle.. Could not help myself, was only 50€:blush:

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This one had most of the gubbins left in it and the diff does not seem to have acres of backlash.

 

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I am actually happy that there was only one drum left, took me half an hour and my second largest hammer to get this removed. I harvested rest of the small parts for safe keeping.

Something to add to my list is to go through all of these and check what gear ratios they have. I quess that the easiest way is to count the turns?

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Looks like you have a Corsair rear axle there.

 

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20 hours ago, Pete-H said:

Looks like you have a Corsair rear axle there.

 

Thanks! Oh well, bound to be of use to someone else so no harm done.

I did not realise that these came in so many flavours. I will check if the ally tag is still legible, that should have all the specs in it.

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1 hour ago, LagoonBlue said:

 

Thanks! Oh well, bound to be of use to someone else so no harm done.

I did not realise that these came in so many flavours. I will check if the ally tag is still legible, that should have all the specs in it.

Still very use able for your Cortina as they has the cable hand brake as well.

Has a good diff ratio too.

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Sorry again for the recent lack of updates. Among other things i have been busy on getting my bike back on the road. Has been a learning experience to say the least. Fear not, i am not going to turn this thread into a blog about crappy eastern block bikes:biggrin: just couple pointers that will help me later on with the Cortina.

 

But first couple new acquisitions;

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Telescoping gauges for checking bores and such. Cheap set but good enough for my use.

 

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Illustrated parts list, not required but nice to have. 70€ +shipping so on the pricey side but could not help my self:blush:

 

So, my MZ's big end crank bearings were shot and i took the engine to bits last year. I had the cylinder rebored and honed in a neighboring town. Reasonable prices, good quality and good reputation and they seemed to be able and willing to do the work on my Cortinas engine when the time comes.

 

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Checking that my new crank survived the shipping (it did, cheaper to buy a new one than fix the old). I made this jig large enough to be able to fit Cortinas transmission shafts etc. Since this pic was taken i got a proper dial stand. Wont stick to aluminium though so i will need to make an adapter.

Ok, so now i have parts in hand and workshop manual in front of me, monkey see monkey do. What could go wrong, eh?

 

First i put the crank in wrong way around:blush: Though that the cross section pic was from the front when it was from the back..

 

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I absolutely hate shrink fitting parts. No room for errors/fumbling about. Took three tries..

Ps. Hylomar gasket/jointing compound removes nicely with paint and gasket remover spray. Kind of obvious really when you think about it.

 

My bargain basement torque wrench is not to be trusted for anything below 100Nm (or above for that matter). Two broken head studs..

 

My itsy bitsy electric rattle gun will happily break a 7mm bolt.

Good luck finding the said 7x105mm 1mm thread pitch bolt locally.

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Temporary fix, new bolt already ordered.

 

So now i have the thing more or less back together, have spark, fuel and squeeze but no bang even when kicking till blue in the face:angry:

After a nights sleep i found out that the plastic frame holding the metal part on the points had melted throwing the timing way off. Cheap repro parts are cheap for a reason.. Well at least i hope that is the cause, i have ordered new parts from Germany but they will take ages to arrive as seems to be the norm these days.

 

And the biggest lesson i learnt was that do not set a definite will-be-done-by date. Only leads to unnecessary frustration when it WILL not be ready in time.

Just go easy, one step at a time and if something is not feeling right stop and think.

 

On the same note, rest of the work on the Cortinas bodyshell is going to be postponed to somewhere around fall. The bodywork guy is doing upgrades to his shop (new ovens and the like). If it means a better result i am all for it. Plenty of other stuff to do on the meanwhile.

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Went shopping again.. 160€ for the lot. Not great, not terrible. Anyways, better than ebay prices:biggrin:

 

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I am not fully happy with my current wings and even though these are in about 4 out of 10 condition they should give me options if that is something i choose to do.

Hinges i will use for sure, all seem to be in usable condition. Since these came from a 4 door shell the back hinges would presumably be in better nick. My current hinges have been "bolt modded" since they were very loose. Shiny bits are in fair condition, rear-view mirror not so much but at least i now know what it should look like.

Jack handle seems to be from an Anglia, no idea where the jack comes from but certainly not a Cortina (handle does not fit the jack).

Some other bits and bobs there also, will have to give them a closer look later on.

Altogether an ok haul, as parts seem to be getting harder to find i just had to snap them up.

 

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I guess this grille cover is an oddity to most of you. No FINIS code but feels like an official Ford item:headscratch: I know that some cars were fitted with roller blinders between the radiator and grille (my parts car had remains of such) but maybe this was an option for milder climates. Not in the best shape and i have no use for it but was free for the taking..

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Nice score on those parts. Shame about the body work being delayed but hopefully it will be worth the wait.

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