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Andy I

wont start in morning

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Yeah Keswick in Cumbria, don't worry I won't be offend that you don't turn up to lend a hand 😃

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been camping in borrowdale quite a few times, not that far realy,sure we'll see you at sum shows this year. :thumbup:

Edited by mk4ste

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Concur with Bortaf, you need to put a meter on the coil +/- contacts and check for 12v when cranking and 9v running,

 

Also, with the meter connected to the coil and the ignition on turn the engine by hand (disconent main HT lead just incase it does fire) As you rotate the engine the meter should rise and fall between 0v and 9v as the points open and close. When the meter falls to zero volts this is when the coil generates a HT pulse to provide the spark at the corresponding plug.

 

If the meter stays at 9v all the time then the points are permanently closed, if it stays at zero the points are permanently open, either way none of these conditions will generate a spark.

 

While you're there measure the coil resistance, across the +/- (primary) you should get about 2-3 ohms. Across either + and the main HT out terminal or - and the main HT out terminal (secondary) you should have between 6000-7000 ohms. Suspect your coil is probably OK but this is a good confidence check. Coils don't normally go intermittent they usually either work or they don't.

 

See how you get on with the above

Another thing to check. My 2000 with a Weber used to drain back to the tank, never really found out why and I had the same starting problem, Fixed it be fitting an electric pump.As I had a clear filter fitted I could see that it was empty.

Tony.

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Another thing to check. My 2000 with a Weber used to drain back to the tank, never really found out why and I had the same starting problem, Fixed it be fitting an electric pump.As I had a clear filter fitted I could see that it was empty.

Tony.

 

 

 

The coil should be 9V with the ign on, 12V when cranking and then back to 9V when running, that is with the meter on the LIVE of the coil and an earth point if you dont get that there is a problem.

 

The fuel pressure provided by the fuel pump has absolutly no effect on the fuel air mix entering the cylinder, all it does is fill the carb, that is all, the fuel is then SUCKED from the float bowl and out the jets by the vacume created in the venturi by the air speeding up as it passes through the carb, a weak fuel pump may cause the float bowl to run low (usually showing up as running out of power at full throttle) or a diaphram with a pin hole may a llow the fuel to run back into the tank/lines but it will NOT syphon the fuel from the float bowl so the car would still start the next morning using the fuel reserve in the float bowl, it may evaporate, it may leak out but it will not be syphoned back into the tank :thumbup:

 

If the fuel is dissapearing from the float bowl either one of the jet bodys in the bottom of the float bowl is loose and allowing fuel to drain out or the carb body is craked allowing the same thing to happen, i's just easyer to check the coil feed than open up the carb hense i suggested you do that first.

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The coil should be 9V with the ign on, 12V when cranking and then back to 9V when running, that is with the meter on the LIVE of the coil and an earth point if you dont get that there is a problem.

 

The fuel pressure provided by the fuel pump has absolutly no effect on the fuel air mix entering the cylinder, all it does is fill the carb, that is all, the fuel is then SUCKED from the float bowl and out the jets by the vacume created in the venturi by the air speeding up as it passes through the carb, a weak fuel pump may cause the float bowl to run low (usually showing up as running out of power at full throttle) or a diaphram with a pin hole may a llow the fuel to run back into the tank/lines but it will NOT syphon the fuel from the float bowl so the car would still start the next morning using the fuel reserve in the float bowl, it may evaporate, it may leak out but it will not be syphoned back into the tank :thumbup:

 

If the fuel is dissapearing from the float bowl either one of the jet bodys in the bottom of the float bowl is loose and allowing fuel to drain out or the carb body is craked allowing the same thing to happen, i's just easyer to check the coil feed than open up the carb hense i suggested you do that first.

Spot on Bortaf :thumbup:

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Is the carb original spec? I've come to learn the carb on mine hasn't got the suited jets,comparing to haynes weber carburettors for a 2 litre,but the spark plugs are brown

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houston we have a problem, 12v with ignition on, 9v when cranking and 9v when running.

Put a wire straight to the coil from the battery to see if it would start with 12v, as it's been sat overnight and all day, it fired right up. Any ideas, me and wires don't get on.

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need to check the BALLAST RESISTOR & WIRING TO AND FROM

Edited by Ford1975

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houston we have a problem, 12v with ignition on, 9v when cranking and 9v when running.

Put a wire straight to the coil from the battery to see if it would start with 12v, as it's been sat overnight and all day, it fired right up. Any ideas, me and wires don't get on.

The ignition on and the engine running voltage readings should be roughly the same i.e around 9v.

 

In practice the ignition on reading will be a bit less than the engine running reading because with engine running the alternator will be generating slightly higher than battery voltage.

 

What is confusing is that you have a higher voltage with ignition on than with engine running :headscratch:

 

Has the car had any work or modifications done to the wiring?

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It all looks factory apart from one wire off the positive that goes into the boot somewhere, think it had a towbar fitted at one point, there is a thick gray wire on the left-hand chassis leg as you look in the engine bay, with a bullet connector on each end going to a black wire with a yellow strip. Is this the ballast wire

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It all looks factory apart from one wire off the positive that goes into the boot somewhere, think it had a towbar fitted at one point, there is a thick gray wire on the left-hand chassis leg as you look in the engine bay, with a bullet connector on each end going to a black wire with a yellow strip. Is this the ballast wire

Yes that's the ballast resistor, should be 1.5 ohms I think.

 

I've had a thought, there are two small wires on the starter motor solenoid, one wire is the energising supply from the ignition key, the other wire goes to one end of the ballast resistor to give you the 12v directly to coil whilst cranking. I can't remember which one is which but put your meter between each one and the wire on the coil positive in turn and check continuity, (disconnect the battery first) if there is no continuity or high rersistance this will explain why the car started when you put the wire directly from the battery to coil.

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It all looks factory apart from one wire off the positive that goes into the boot somewhere, think it had a towbar fitted at one point, there is a thick gray wire on the left-hand chassis leg as you look in the engine bay, with a bullet connector on each end going to a black wire with a yellow strip. Is this the ballast wire

Another thought, once you find out which wire on the solenoid goes to the coil, put your meter on that solenoid contact and crank the engine and measure the voltage. Then measure the voltage at the starter motor supply cable (big red one) whilst cranking, both readings should be exactly the same. If the voltage on the contact that goes to the coil is a lot lower then the auxillary contact within the solinoid is probably high resistance and therefore not routing that full 12v to coil.

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put your meter on that solenoid contact and crank the engine and measure the voltage. Then measure the voltage at the starter motor supply cable (big red one) whilst cranking, both readings should be exactly the same.

 

Another way to do it, measure the voltage on both small wires on the solenoid whilst cranking, the readings should both be exactly the same, if not then it's a problem with the auxillary contacts.

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I tried the terminal that is supposed to supply the 12v off the solenoid and only got 9v, but never thought of trying the supply from the battery. I'll give that ago tomorrow. 👍

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