cortina-city 141 Posted July 3, 2016 Do you ever sleep :) dukes, i do and i love sleep manage 8 hours...just 24 hours in a day sometimes...lol Do you need to paint ontop of gravitex Pete or can you just have it as the final finish? final fisnish is fine Richard, but a 2k maize over this bad boy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 6, 2016 I have completed the owrk on the underside of the shell. The doors, boot and bonnet have now arrived from soda. ill be double checking the gapping, finalising some interior floor pan work and then sending car for paint. in meantime its axle and engine build. and passivating all the nuts and bolts and powder coating Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ford1975 2 Posted July 6, 2016 Looking tidy Pete, pushing along nicely 👌🏻 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfrace 116 Posted July 6, 2016 I think you've stepped it up a notch since swampy tbh. especially with the electrics. God knows what your OCD will be like on the 2 door when you knock it up to 11. I'll be ashamed to take mine out of the garage if bramble is around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 6, 2016 I think you've stepped it up a notch since swampy tbh. especially with the electrics. God knows what your OCD will be like on the 2 door when you knock it up to 11. I'll be ashamed to take mine out of the garage if bramble is around. richard i could make 10 the loudest one and have that as the loudest? "these go up to eleven!" :-) KEN thanks!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 7, 2016 No pics this eve, i left my camera at work ...rrrrrrr ok well ive been cleaning up the floor pans insde and fitting sound deadning pads starting on final panel gapping now the doors, bonnet and ot are here. i had already gapped the car but i just want to double check and i need to drill all the holes for the side strip mouldings.... theres only one chance to get it all right. ill use the laser level to strike a line on the side of car and mark out that way. ill also adjust the wing nose cones if they dont match bonnet line. this involves slicing the fornt edge of wing nose cone and opening out and then mig/braze in to suit. this is so you get bonnet to wing/ grill/ even match it ma not need it as they are NOS ford wings but we shall see...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 13, 2016 finishing touches before paint. double and triple check the panel gaps fit the sound pads. interior floor is beling painted too so cleanign that up putting extra soundproofing into bulkhead apllying mastik to the ford weak spot dash seam to scuttle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nogE 91 Posted July 13, 2016 Wish I had gapping that good. .spot on Pete. .perfection 👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danish 294 Posted July 13, 2016 Very nice gaps and overall nice progress :thumbup: What insulation are you using for the floor? I've gone with closed-cell foam for the roof and door skins but I'm undecided about my floor at the moment :headscratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 13, 2016 Wish I had gapping that good. .spot on Pete. .perfection 👍 its not too bad had to chop and bash a few bits noggie Very nice gaps and overall nice progress :thumbup: What insulation are you using for the floor? I've gone with closed-cell foam for the roof and door skins but I'm undecided about my floor at the moment :headscratch: jayne im on dynamat for roof and floor for first layer of flooe just bitumen pads same as factory, in fact only reason you see the pads there is that i removed factory pads in order to do the floor repairs warlier on on resto. so just putting the factory bitumen back plus 'some' extra then its dynamat for roof and doors and few other areas i have some closed cell foam too, i got from ebay but seems a bit thin biggest improvement is to repair the ford mistake of no mastik on bulkhead to screen/scuttle if you look at your shell (be quick!) youll see that air can enter cabin via the three way fold between scuttle, inner and outer bulkhead windscreen lip/ edge shine a torch or blow air into scuttle air intake, youll see air enterign cabin even with screen fitted. design fault. makes for whoosy noise when driving. discovered when doign swampy. had to retro repair on swampy this time im ready witht he mastik/seam sealer incartridge mastik gun form. air enters via the 3 way spot welded panel join that form to make the windsvreen rubber fold. all along front of dash. wooooosh 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChristinaGXL 23 Posted July 14, 2016 What else are you using for sound deadening? The carpet in my taunus seems pretty loose fitting, I'm not sure if there's some of those thick fibre and rubber pads missing or can a carpet shrink? it seems too small in the footwells. Wondering if you've had to build up a certain thickness under the carpet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danish 294 Posted July 14, 2016 im on dynamat for roof and floor for first layer of flooe just bitumen pads same as factory ... biggest improvement is to repair the ford mistake of no mastik on bulkhead to screen/scuttle if you look at your shell (be quick!) youll see that air can enter cabin via the three way fold between scuttle, inner and outer bulkhead windscreen lip/ edge Thanks for that - and just in time, the shell's coming off the spit this weekend. :thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina-city 141 Posted July 14, 2016 What else are you using for sound deadening? The carpet in my taunus seems pretty loose fitting, I'm not sure if there's some of those thick fibre and rubber pads missing or can a carpet shrink? it seems too small in the footwells. Wondering if you've had to build up a certain thickness under the carpet? hi Christina footwelld normally have the shaped sound insulation, rubberised with the felt backing also over transmission tunnel il be putting the orginals back in which came with car but just making sure if i can add any more i will i have some sound felt, thick stuff ona roll also extra bitumin pads which you buy from motor factors in boxes of 4 squares --- Jayne, use a seam sealer in cartridge and put inside bulkhead from engine bay side, the area where the wiper motor and heaterbox go, that part of bulkhead that joins windscreen lip there wasnt much if any from factory, and if dipped, off course youll have none. wind noise comes in thru the scuttle grill as normal and into heater box fresh air intake, as designed. problem is it finds its way thru the bulkhead, into the cabin via the panel fold that has no mastik, it gets thru the windscreen rubber and then creates a draught over the crash pad dash area. noticed on swampy, and looking on ruby, using airline i can see it would have done it here. so i seam sealed. both sides, engine bay side, and then in the cabin on the dash to scuttle panel fold. :thumbup: this will make for a quiter cabin. biggest way to reduce cabin noise is find and seal all holes. i used stephescope and a leaf blower on swampy, cabin noise is minimal in this car. also extra bitumin pads, under carpet felt (watch out for centre console being too high on the carpet wont screw down proper if too much felt, cut a shape in this area) cut out for seat runners to bolt down or you cant get floor bolts in, so again cut around. trial and error at the trim stage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
