4-cyl and 6-cyl rev counters - what is the actual difference?

[sheffieldcortinacentre 610]

So pol one Will read with what amount of cols & how is it adjusted?

Would like one to work with v8 if it only needs a tweak.

[Danish 294]

I don't know yet, but I will in a few days :thumbup:

[Pete-H 66]

MM3 loaned me a PFL one today and yes, it has a 4k7 pot on the circuit board. So it might be that our new circuit will only be needed for facelift gauges, or PFL ones with broken circuit.

 

 

 

 

 

We're building a prototype at the moment, once that's working we'll be looking to get a batch of circuit boards made up. But, it's not obvious at the moment how to make these available as the board will need calibrating to the engine and gauge - the prototype needs a special USB cable and software to programme a calibration value from a PC or Mac. Maybe we can add '+' and '-' buttons onto the board or something... watch this space.

 

Any news?

 

I know your busy.

[Danish 294]

Any news?

 

I know your busy.

 

No, my friend is moving house at the moment, so a bit busy.

[Pete-H 66]

ok Np I wish them well with the move always a stressful thing to do.

[Pete-H 66]

As Before

 

Any news?

[Danish 294]

As Before

 

Any news?

 

She completed the house sale on Friday.

[Pete-H 66]

ok great now the hard bit the move.

 

Thank you.

[Danish 294]

ok great now the hard bit the move.

 

Yup. The room I've come to think of as my Pinto workshop is now full of a house-full of furniture.

 

But there is some progress - Heather has the microprocessor up and running - using dummy input and outputs. The next step is driving an actual gauge. We've expanded the project to drive fuel gauge and oil pressure gauges as well as the tacho - the chip can drive up to about 6 gauges.

Edited August 30, 2016 by Danish

[Muzza 1]

I had the same issue in my Mk2 Cortina.

I installed a Bosch distributor that has the BIM module on the side.

The BIM varies dwell from 8 deg at idle and up to 28 deg at 6000 rpm

 

The RVI type tacho will not work with a narrow dwell angle.

The solution is to replace the RVI electronics with a pulse interface circuit.

The new circuit would drive the tacho movement, so externally, the tacho looks original.

 

I designed my own circuit and made a few circuit boards (board is 25x50mm).

Gutted the original tacho electronics and installed my own board.

 

Mine is an analogue circuit and has a 20 turn trim pot for fine calibration.

I set up the mod'ed tacho alongside my automotive multimeter that has tacho function.

I do the initial setup using a sig gen but it is just as easy to do it on a running engine.

I do the final checks on a running engine anyway.

 

Works well and have done a whole bunch of others since doing mine.

Only problem (for you) is that I am in Australia

[Danish 294]

Any news?

 

Pete, my friend has too much on to progress it herself so I'm going to do it myself.

 

I'm going to use an Arduino to drive the tacho needle directly.

 

For my car I'm using the canbus (OBD) data from the engine management - it constantly streams out the engine rpm.

 

If you're still wanting one I think we can build a circuit to count the coil pulses then drive the tacho in the same way.

[Pete-H 66]

Ah go on then if you don't mind?

 

Not in as bigger a rush as I cannot do anything with it until the car is back together.

 

[Danish 294]

Ah go on then if you don't mind?

 

No problem. I'm not going into production or anything, but there are a couple of regulars who were interested in the project - and the boards aren't expensive.

[Pete-H 66]

No problem. I'm not going into production or anything, but there are a couple of regulars who were interested in the project - and the boards aren't expensive.