Which parts to Waxoyl? (mk3/4/5)

[RichardJ 59]

Hi all,

 

I want to make sure I've rust treated my car as much as possible, so was looking to get some input in what areas to treat with Waxoyl (or Dinitrol), and try to pull together a list.

 

Can anyone give me some guidance?

 

Thanks

Rich

[bortaf 96]

Rear chassis Y section where the lower axle arm locates, is a real horror spot, TBH anywjere that 2 or more layers of metal join, the moisture gets trapped inbetween the layers and there's 3 layers at that point, inside the sills is an obv area, the large cavity allows condensation to form on the inner surfaces due to the outer sill being cooled by the outside and the inner sill being heated by the interior and the in inner lip where the floor inner and outer sill joins is again a 3 layer moisture trap, rear chassis members where they kick up for the boot floor hardly ever have any paint in them, the inner wing top rails another miltilayer moisture trap, and the rear of the front inner arch, lots of muck gets thrown up into there and there are lots of nooks and crannys to trap wet road muck so it hardly ever drys and sits and rots, same with the rear inner arches, although the side with the rear box is usually the better of the 2 due to the heat drying it out a bit more.

[the-ford-cortina.com 226]

ANYWHERE YOU CAN GET TO - THE MORE PLACES THE BETTER

[RichardJ 59]

ANYWHERE YOU CAN GET TO - THE MORE PLACES THE BETTER

That's what I'm going for, just want to make sure I don't miss any real rust traps.

 

It looks like Bortaf's list is pretty detailed, so I'm going to blast everything he has suggested and then see what other holes and seams I can find to stick a nozzle into.

 

If anyone has any other recommendations, though, I'm still after as much guidance as I can get for this job.

 

Cheers

Rich

[sheffieldcortinacentre 765]

Complete A pillar

[RichardJ 59]

Complete A pillar

 

I didn't think of that one.

How do you get inside it to spray?

[mk3 dave 9]

Don't forget inside the doors

[wolfrace 116]

Kick panels off and all in there. Same with the rear qtr cards to access inner arch to rear wings/sill (guess all this is on your 2 door) a load down either side of the boot into rear lower qtrs. feed spray up into b pillar also with rear card off or through the slots for opening rear window hinges.

I've seen folk drill holes for inaccessible voids and then replace with a bung.

 

IMO warm panels first with a heater, also warm the wax, it'll find its way into the nooks a lot easier.

 

It's one if those jobs I want to do myself but I need to really go over the whole car & address any welding. Really it's a pain welding if everywhere is covered in waxoil.

[RichardJ 59]

Cheers guys, lots of good suggestions there.

 

Have now made a start, but I'm gonna need another tin at this rate.

[bortaf 96]

I use a pump up garden sprayer to get the waxoil into places, warm it well first (stand the sprayer in a bucket of hot water) as said and if possable the panels (i use a hair dryer in the appropriate orifice) , i will also add the scuttle panel.

Back in the day if you had the car treated they would drill a series of hole then add small rubber/plastic bungs all around the car, any motor thats been ziebarted from new will have these bungs everywhere

[the-ford-cortina.com 226]

I use a pump up garden sprayer to get the waxoil into places, warm it well first (stand the sprayer in a bucket of hot water) as said and if possable the panels (i use a hair dryer in the appropriate orifice) , i will also add the scuttle panel.

Back in the day if you had the car treated they would drill a series of hole then add small rubber/plastic bungs all around the car, any motor thats been ziebarted from new will have these bungs everywhere

 

Yes those bungs in the tops of the sills are often a good sign

[RichardJ 59]

Yes those bungs in the tops of the sills are often a good sign

 

I wonder why they didn't they use the holes on the inside side of the sill (under the carpet) to get spray inside?

Probably easier to just drill and pump if the car was already assembled.

[the-ford-cortina.com 226]

I wonder why they didn't they use the holes on the inside side of the sill (under the carpet) to get spray inside?

Probably easier to just drill and pump if the car was already assembled.

 

yes the drill and pump jobs were done on , on the road cars , quick and easy no need to even take the carpets up

[TinaInTheForest 1]

I bought a '71 Mexico in 2008 that had Ziebart treatment from new. That was the stuff used before Waxoil came along. It had been sprayed everywhere, including everything under the bonnet.

 

 

After 2 weeks, a few gallons of petrol and a lot of headaches, the original car was revealed underneath. Absolutely no rust, and the stuff had even preserved the looms and stickers like new.

 

 

I wouldn't go that far nowadays, as you probably won't drive it on salted roads. But it is worth spraying some on every joint / overlap of panels, even if they are painted, in case there is a little unpainted bit that you can't see. You can wipe it all off afterwards leaving no sign, but it will creep into any unsealed joint.

 

I have since restored the car back to new condition, and no bodywork was required, after 45 years, 90k miles and 14 years of all-year driving. The rust prevention stuff really does work!

 

 

Mark

[RichardJ 59]

Wow - that is a beautiful car underneath all that ziebart!

Prevention is better than cure any day, which is why I want to waxoyl every non- visible seam or box section I can find.