Bangar MK2 the journey continues

[Bangar 7]

Forgot to add a pic of the heater matrix. Its not pretty but should work

Edited February 13, 2018 by Bangar

[nascar66 74]

To save your wings you could try a spot weld cutter. That's what I've always used although not on a Cortina.

[Bangar 7]

The clock never keeps time, i have a spare so i took it apart and can see why lol. Repair not goin to happen. Needed an alternative so tried by getting a quart clock inside the housing it worked but lighting the dial up was an issue. Here it is inside the a pod.

[Bangar 7]

To save your wings you could try a spot weld cutter. That's what I've always used although not on a Cortina.

 

Cheers i got one or a few lol, and some other bits. They are mig spots. I bought a belt sander narrow one will help in certain areas and seam buster an array of thin flat chisels. Still paranoid about doing it though lol

[Bangar 7]

Here is the clock in the middle, its Russian well eastern european Quartz 12volts looks ok and keeps time.

And new gauges to replace others ones i had, i wanted them all to be round in pods dont look bad.

[Bangar 7]

My bullit mirrows which attach to the door frame have fallen apart and perished. I had painted the bullit bit black myself years ago.

[Bangar 7]

Got a new pair and transfered the bullit over.

[Bangar 7]

Left side the Led projector and ont he right H4 Halogen with a bloody good bulb. Car was not running but battery had good charge

[mouse 6]

Thanks guys, the plan get her back up and running to attend a few shows and go cruising. I had forgoten how it sounds when running It was pretty awesome, bike carbs are evil with the Zetec lol.

The exhaust is pretty cool but i have outgrown the cherry bomb, its too loud. So in keeping with me modifying most things to fit, i have purchased an escort exhust system (2 silencers) to connect the 105speed manifold which is perfect no rust Yay! The funny thing the current exhaust although rusty and crusty has no leaks which was a nice surprise. Cortina exhausts are expensive and cant stretch to a stainless one yet.

 

So this will have to do.

Hi.

Good story-keep at it -it'll be worth it in the end..

 

Just 1 question..

 

I notice you had the battery in the boot-

I've a Mk.1 with a 1690 crossflow.

 

I too put the battery in the boot and bought a decent size battery,

The engine is very reluctant to start even with a new starter.

It sounds as if the battery is duff but it's not.

Does yours start ok??

I'm at a bit of a loss with this one.

 

Regards Mouse..

[Bangar 7]

Hello Mouse,

 

I have had the same problem. My setup was 300ish amp marine power cable that i wired to the normal starter solenoid on the inner wing, and then a less thick cable to the starter motor. This cable would overheat, melting/burning, starter gets slower then cant crank the car. Would have to get a jump at the solenoid then all was well. this is a poor circuit design for me when i dont need an additional solenoid when theres already one on the starter.

 

From my limited understanding the longer the power cable the more power it loses, to over come this beef up the cable, which kind of half worked. On BMW's which have the battery in the boot they use a distribution type block in the engine bay that feeds direct to the starter, and then you get live switch to turn the starter over.

 

My plan to over come the problem is go BMW style, i had a 7 series and never had a problem, hot or cold. I have got a 7 series power cable which i will cut to my lengths. I am going to be using a car audio distribution block 0 gauge to get power around.

From battery to distribution block then to starter and to alternator (Solid not fused) and then to another distribution block to power the car Fused.

 

Currently i have an inline fuse battery end but am now adding another engine end, as i should of done this originally. I am going to use inline circuit breakers havent fitted yet 150-200 amp cant remember. Currently i think i have a 200amp fuse. I had a breakdown years back where the fuse blew, no spare i was stuck. With circuit breakers should be simpler.

 

Have you got a fuse in the power cable if so how many amps?

 

[Bangar 7]

On the issue of elcectrics i decided to change the leds for the gauges as some had failed and were a bit dim. Leds to me are good consume less power and produce more light.

 

To find a good replacement i bought lots and here is the line. I Leds normal project in a limited angle, looking like spots.

 

Bit weird but going from Right to left.

Original LED were good and worked well

Super bright too bright, these smell and burn and melt the bulb holder and wiring gets hot not good.

Simple version run cool but light is like a spot light.

Result run very well cool, no heat on bulb holder or bulb or wiring. Bit bright but the light is uniform 360Deg or close as. I used some resistor to turn the brightness down.

Result again run warm not hot, light is brighter again 360Deg.

 

Last 2 are a great solution dont have to worry the bulb or associated wiring will go up in smoke

[Bangar 7]

0 gauge terminals. There massive lol.

 

The metal one im going to trim and use on the starter motor so the cable does not have to bend as much.

[LHD16E 9]

Welcome back my old mucker Banger :thumbup: always wondered what happened to you :car:

[Bangar 7]

Hello mate, thanks for having me back. Congrats on the business just had a look on facebook top quality. How you been and the Mrs?

I have donated, put something back in, BSC has given me a lot through the years.

 

Im planning to have her ship shape soon want to hit some shows and catch up with everyone and meet new people to. You going to any shows?

[GhiaMk4/5 207]

Good luck with the restoration, l followed your updates the first time round and will be doing the same this time, like your pics with the 15" rostyles, the American ones don't look quiet right, l let my GT stand for a while, then got back into the bodywork.