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jezadude

Electronic Ignition for 1972 GXL

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Hello can somebody please advice me on modifying my 1972 GXL (1.6 OHC)  via fitting it with an electronic Ignition in order to assist it to start far more easily.

 

Just to fill you in I know little about the mechanics of cars, do the degree where I have to use a local garage to do all my mechanical work for me or rather most of it, (I can change a battery, HT leads a radiator etc the sort of simple jobs that require no previous experience).

 

What I would like to know is:

 

1. Is it a good idea, will it start like a dream

2. The engine bay is extremely clean and standard (as it came out of Dagenham) will this conversion change the standard look of the engine much if not at all.

3. What do i need to buy in order to do it, I have found this link on ebay 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Ford-Cortina-Mk3-1-6-2-0-Motorcraft-Distributor/401910732311

IS THIS CORRECT? How do I know if I have a Motorcraft Distributor which the link says its for? Do I need to replace anything else (like the coil to a 12v if I don't already have one) someone mentioned to me I need to.

4. Will a decent local mechanic in his 30's be ok to do this job without messing it up.

 

Please can anybody kindly help me.

 

I look forward to hearing from you.

 

Cheers

Jeremy

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If Motorcraft, the distributer cap is black,  if Bosch, the cap is brown/terracotta.

 

You'd likely manage the job yourself.  :thumbsup:

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I've just fitted another type of electronic ignition to my mk5...……..and it starts "like a dream".

 

But you know what, it started like a dream on points and condenser !

 

If starting is your problem, how sure are you it's the ignition at fault?

 

Incidentally, I did have a set-up like the one in the e-bay link, this was a few years ago....it failed. Have been on points and condenser since then 'till last week! 

 

 

 

Regarding conventional ignition,  it's a great way to learn.   I used to check my points gap with feeler gauges(30 years ago!), there's a spec in the Haynes manual, there's also a dwell setting listed, this is more accurate and needs a multimeter to set it this way(how I do it now).

You can also check your ignition timing with a test light(connected between coil neg and earth), the bulb lights when the points open....done with ignition on and turning engine with a spanner...…..ALL GREAT FUN !!

Bare in mind, these cars ran great even before electronic ignition was invented !!

 

Just my thoughts.:smile:

Edited by John Mack

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There are several makes that are similar from Accuspark, SimonBBC and Ebay.  They all work on the same principal of a hall effect trigger

 

Sometimes it's good to get the kit with the uprated coil and replace the ballast wire too

 

Once fitted definitely do the timing, make sure the vacuum advance pipe is OK and think about servicing your carb (I've recently done my Weber 38 recently for the first time in 20 years and it's so much of an improvement) also check the condition of your plugs/wires.  My pinto likes NGKs gapped at 35 thou

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Electronic is more efficient and make sure everything you do is reversable, then worst case scenario, if you break down, you can revert back to points and condenser.

 

I also agree with John Mack, I could get my 2.0S to run a dream on conventional system, I seem to remember the ballast wire failing and a  condenser, this kind of work isn't complicated, take plenty of pics, better than any Haynes manual,  and not many tools required, I would tackle the job myself, just replacing the points if the old ones have "pipped" will make a difference and checking there is no corrosion on the rotor arm or on the inside contacts of the distributor cap, if you get stuck, there will be someone on here that can advise you.

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11 hours ago, GhiaMk4/5 said:

.........….if you break down, you can revert back to points and condenser.

 

That's what I had to do, easily done.

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Thanks guys I lot of sound advice here, I will let you know how I get on!!

 

Cheers

Jeremy

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It's quite easy to do, there's a walk through on a Capri here: Link

 

and instructions from Accuspark here: pdf Link

 

And there are some videos on Youtube too

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Good advise there... people tend to forget about changing the ballast lead/wire for a 12volt cable...PFL cars the wire was not taped into the loom..loose and easy to unplug both ends...and remove, get ya 12volt wire and solder the same male bullet ends on each end and plug back in ..done... this will now provide 12volts to coil.....

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