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Pinto rough running

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Hi all,

 

I hoping someone can help with the rough running of my Pinto.

 

It hasn't done much running since being rebuilt, it has a new distributor, leads and plugs. The carb has just been rebuilt as it wouldn't even tick over before, oh and it has a fast road cam.

 

I'm not very experienced with cars with points and how to set up timing and wondered if it could possibly be that causing the problem.

 

Basically, it struggles to rev, coughs, splutters and misses but will now just about tick over.

 

I've made a video to show some of the issues and would appreciate any help anyone can offer. I've been let down by a few people who have been working on the car so I'm keen to learn how sort this stuff out myself!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3Pedr4W3Gc

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It's like it has a misfire judging by the way it's bouncing around?      Can you clarify the leads are fitted correctly?

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As above.

I'd also be checking the gap between the cam and follower as too small a gap or no gap will give you a misfire like that.

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As above:

1. Check plug leads are all correct

2. Check gap, dwell and timing on the distributor

3. Check all the pipes leading into the inlet manifold are sealed ok.

4. Check the cam is timed properly.

5. What cam - are the valve gaps right for that specific cam

6. Have you set the carb up after its rebuild? What carb?

7. Is the engine earth fitted ok.

8. Where are you? There might be a member nearby who would be willing to help

 

 

 

Edited by dgo

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Watching the video again, personally I would start with ignition then the carb setup

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11 hours ago, dgo said:

As above:

1. Check plug leads are all correct

2. Check gap, dwell and timing on the distributor

3. Check all the pipes leading into the inlet manifold are sealed ok.

4. Check the cam is timed properly.

5. What cam - are the valve gaps right for that specific cam

6. Have you set the carb up after its rebuild? What carb?

7. Is the engine earth fitted ok.

8. Where are you? There might be a member nearby who would be willing to help

 

 

 

 

Thank you all for the information, much appreciated, I'm going to look at the obvious stuff today if I get chance and move on to the other options next weekend.

 

First off I'll check the leads are correct. Looking down onto the top of the cap and assuming #1 is marked on the dizzy cap do they go clockwise 1-3-4-2?

 

I'll pop the cambelt cover off and check the timing marks are aligned.

 

The cam fitted is a Kent cams FR32 which lists the valve clearances as  0.25mm inlet and 0.30mm exhaust, this different from standard so I'll pop the cover off next weekend and check them.

 

As for the carb, the engine was running so rough when I got the car back that I thought it was a good place to start. The diaphragm on the accelerator pump was damaged and some of the apertures from the same area were completely blocked, I thoroughly cleaned it with carb cleaner and blasted it through with the air line. All the jets were clear but I did the same to all of them anyway. There was a bit of muck in the bowl but nothing to really worry about. New float valve and seat fitted plus all the obvious gaskets and filter were changed. This has slightly improved things so I'll stick with how it is for now while I'll look at the ignition so I don't get completely lost.

 

The earth straps are fitted and seem in reasonable condition.

 

Oh and I'm in the Southampton area.

 

Many thanks again for the help, I'll let you know what progress I make!

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I found a spare hour or so today so made a start:

 

I removed the cam belt cover and used a spanner on the crank to align the bottom timing mark (the white paint was already on the timing mark)

I couldn't see how to check the timing mark on the camshaft pulley as there didn't appear to be a marker to line up (there is a white dot of paint on the top) 

I traced the HT lead from plug # 1 to the dizzy cap and removed the lead on that end.

I then lifted off the dizzy cap and was expecting to see the rotor arm in lined up with # 1 but it's lined up with # 4, does this mean I've not gone far enough and need to get cylinder # 1 on the compression stroke?

 

Also, if I remove the bolt and washer from the end of the camshaft will there be a keyway visible that will tell me that the top pulley is in the correct position?

 

Thanks again.

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Dissy timing is out a bit I'd say. Slacken the lock bolt off a little bit (just enough for you to move it but it stays put when you let go) and turn the dissy by hand until you get a smooth tickover and try gently revving it by hand. This should sort it I'd think.
If that doesn't help I'd be looking at the cam timing, it may be 1 tooth out either way. Line up the bottom pulley at TDC then see where the pointer is on the cam pully (original Pinto pully with 3 holes). It should/would be pointing down (6 o'clock). There is a small dimple in the head for the pointer to line up with. (which we can't see on your 'aftermarket' cam pully picture)
I just typed this out on YT then realised I should be on here. Doh! :¬/
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This is actually in line but the rad cap gets in the way so I had to take the pic from an angle!
Edited by Beeper
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3 hours ago, Lobby said:

....... does this mean I've not gone far enough and need to get cylinder # 1 on the compression stroke?

I think you're maybe just needing to sort out the firing order?  

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On those Bosch dizzy's there is a mark in the top of the body. This is the pointer for number one plug lead. Firing order is 1342 in a clockwise direction. 

Usually, number one on the cap is at the one o'clock position when the dissy is fitted into the engine. 3,4,2 follows on from that. In order to get the rotor arm to line up with the marker on the dissy you will need to turn the dissy shaft back a bit so when you insert the dissy into the engine the teeth on the drive will turn the shaft clockwise as it meshes with the gear inside the engine. This should put the rotor arm pointing to the marker on the body. Then just nip the bolt so you can turn the dissy as the engine is running to get the best running you can. Ideally a timing light is now needed for optimum results.

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Spent a bit more time on it today.  I took the bolt and washer off the end of the camshaft and sure enough, the dot of white paint was there to indicate keyway.

 

I made sure it was on the compression stroke by looking in the rocker cover and checking what the cam lobes were doing,.

 

The rotor arm is roughly in (slightly past) the position of #1 in the dizzy cap.

 

I then lined up the camshaft (with a spanner on the crank bolt) with the keyway in the 6 o'clock position to replicate the standard camshaft timing marks set up and then had a look where the crankshaft pulley timing marks landed. 

 

They look quite a way out to me? (Kent cams spec is 14 degrees). If it is way out would this be due to the belt being a a few tooth out or would this simply destroy the engine?

 

Also, the plugs are really sooty, I'm assuming that this will be caused by the timing issue and not a carb setting?

 

Thanks again for all your help.

 

 

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Timing Mark on the crank looks out to me. It looks as if it is one tooth out? You can't destroy the engine a 2.0ltr Pinto is a non interference engine. I.E the valves will not touch the pistons.

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4 hours ago, Steve Walton said:

Timing Mark on the crank looks out to me. It looks as if it is one tooth out? You can't destroy the engine a 2.0ltr Pinto is a non interference engine. I.E the valves will not touch the pistons.

That's a relief, thank you.

 

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