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[KELLTINA 23]

Looking for help with illumination for the heater controls. It used to work before restoration but has probably been distributed. What bulb, which fuse, is it easy to change bulb. No help from Haynes manual. 

 

Next problem, again used to work prior to restoration. Temp gauge, not reading as it used to. It's reading very low, deffo working as it lifts off the pin/bottom. Used to always be reading mid way, bang in the middle. 

 

Any advice to fix these would be appreciated. 

Mike

[Tigdlo 26]

Regarding the heater controls, it is illuminated by a small capless bulb fitted into a plastic holder, which in turn, is pushed into the back of the control unit. On a mk3, I think you can get to it after pulling the ashtray out from the dashboard.

A common problem with temperature sender units, is when they are refitted with PTFE tape wrapped round the threads. This electrically insulates the sender from the engine, so it doesn’t work. I wonder if that is the problem with yours?

[KELLTINA 23]

24 minutes ago, Tigdlo said:

Regarding the heater controls, it is illuminated by a small capless bulb fitted into a plastic holder, which in turn, is pushed into the back of the control unit. On a mk3, I think you can get to it after pulling the ashtray out from the dashboard.

A common problem with temperature sender units, is when they are refitted with PTFE tape wrapped round the threads. This electrically insulates the sender from the engine, so it doesn’t work. I wonder if that is the problem with yours?

Thanks mate. Very good information. If I take the mk5 center consol off, I think the old ashtray opening is still there. 

Can you point out where the temp sensor is? 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

You'll get to heater bulb easier with glovebox removed on a Mk5 .

Temp sender is near frt of cylinder head on a a 4 pot has a red/white wire to it.

[KELLTINA 23]

12 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

You'll get to heater bulb easier with glovebox removed on a Mk5 .

Temp sender is near frt of cylinder head on a a 4 pot has a red/white wire to it.

Thanks Craig. I noticed last night that the interior light does not come on in any position. Again, was working prior to refurb. 

Is there a connection fuse wise with the interior light and the heater control light? 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

Heater one should be a grey & yellow same as dash lights etc & work via light set ( so if sidelights etc work no fuse).

Int light not working at all is usually one of two things wires not connected correctly at light.

Or some late X-Y (82) reg ones have a delay relay (yellow 4pin) roughly behind centre of dash make sure the earth terminal for it is tight ( heater light may use same earth).

[KELLTINA 23]

36 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

Heater one should be a grey & yellow same as dash lights etc & work via light set ( so if sidelights etc work no fuse).

Int light not working at all is usually one of two things wires not connected correctly at light.

Or some late X-Y (82) reg ones have a delay relay (yellow 4pin) roughly behind centre of dash make sure the earth terminal for it is tight ( heater light may use same earth).

HI Craig. Side lights etc work fine. Did a fuse check, all clear and clean. Yes it does have the delayed interior light. Wiring to the interior light hasn't been touched by anyone. The delay module, is that connected /located behind the radio consol just next to back of ashtray? 

I've also noticed tonight, ciggy lighter works but the illumination does not. 

Any help would be useful before I rip the car to bits. 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

I'd check the wires for live & earth ( live grey/yellow, earth brown, bulbs too) for heater/lighter as their joined, int light relay is in that area ( as I said it's aYellow one).

If lighter is working check bulb or the grey/ yellow feed . As bulb either shares brown earth wire or earth's through metal body of lighter socket.

Does yours have illuminated hrw/hazzard switch's & ashtray?

As ifso these share same live/earth's too ( which I think later is on an extension down to console also containing clock ( on Ghia, & auto shifter light. These may have been mixed up).

One bulb out/ missing shouldn't stop others working though.

Live/earth for int light are in drivers eyeball vent area check they're clean/ connected ( red live, brown earth).

 

Gimme a ring if not midday onwards except tomorrow.

[KELLTINA 23]

12 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

I'd check the wires for live & earth ( live grey/yellow, earth brown, bulbs too) for heater/lighter as their joined, int light relay is in that area ( as I said it's aYellow one).

If lighter is working check bulb or the grey/ yellow feed . As bulb either shares brown earth wire or earth's through metal body of lighter socket.

Does yours have illuminated hrw/hazzard switch's & ashtray?

As ifso these share same live/earth's too ( which I think later is on an extension down to console also containing clock ( on Ghia, & auto shifter light. These may have been mixed up).

One bulb out/ missing shouldn't stop others working though.

Live/earth for int light are in drivers eyeball vent area check they're clean/ connected ( red live, brown earth).

 

Gimme a ring if not midday onwards except tomorrow.

Thanks Craig for your time on this. I will shed some light on this problem. Had a big restoration, however the interior was not touched, removed or replaced because it was spotless. Thing is I get the feeling the dash has been removed or at least unscrewed to gain access as gearbox, engine and everything under the bonnet was removed. Would they need to gain access to behind the dashboard to aid removal of something under bonnet? 

Will dig my electrical tester out next weekend. I intend to tackle this little issue next Saturday so collating as much information from you guys. 

So, here it is. No interior light, bulb ok and no evidence of the delay module click behind radio. 

Cig lighter illustration not working, not checked the bulb yet but lighter works fine. 

Heater /vent control illumination not working. Not checked bulb. 

These items don't affect the running of the car but it sure as hell bugs me because it all worked fine before the paint job. It must be something very simple. I've not attempted to remedy this until Saturday. Day off! 

Cheers all. 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

No need to disturb dash other than to work on it or ducting.

[Tigdlo 26]

I wonder if the fuse box has been changed for one from another Ford model or year? It is known that these fuse boxes all look much the same, but can cause all sorts of hilarity or grief if you fit the wrong one!

[KELLTINA 23]

Ok, had a chance today to challenge the illumination issues I had. Firstly thanks for your tips and advice. 

The heater bulb had blown, now ok fresh bulb fitted, I did notice whist in the heater selector plate/cable area, the rheostat, ceramic block sitting on top of selector was scorching hot, is this normal? All wiring seems OK and no shorting, all checks out with my multimeter. 

Ciggy lighter bulb wasn't blown but the housing for the bulb wasn't pushed all the way home so wasn't earthing, there is a little metal earthing tab on the bulb holder that needs to touch earth to complete circuit. 

I can't suss out why the temp gauge is Reading low and after a chat with the restorer, he said it may just be running very cool as a new rad fitted plus a new fan and viscous coupling fitted. I'm still not sure tho. I may take the advice of checking the heat sensor plug screwed into the block to see if ptfe tape was used on the thread making for a false reading. Question, if I unscrew the temp sensor, will coolant . out? Could it be a faulty sensor?? Or maybe the thermostat the wrong one??? 

Now for the interior light, it now works on opening the front doors, however, it does not work when I switch it on manually. The light has 3 wires going to it, pretty simple wiring layout with a brown earth, a red live which has power coming from the dalay module but next to that is another brown wire which I assume would of been a permanent live but has no power from it. Question, does this secondary brown wire come from the delay module? If so maybe the module at fault, the Haynes schematics does not help. 

It's no big deal tbh but I work lates and could do with the light working and not have to open the drivers door whilst doing 90. I've checked the workings of the light unit and all checks out as I swapped the live wires around and it still works off the door switch only. 

So Im prepared to try a different delay module if anyone has one cheap. There's plenty on the bay in Poland and Romania but asking silly prices. Mine is yellow, sorry I didn't note the part number. 

Cheers guys. 

Mike. 

 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

Water will come out yes, the sender should have a white insert in it ( there are different ratings with different colours as an identifier).

There'd wire on int light is permanent live , brown is earth one should be screwed to mount other goes down drvs pillar the to door switches.

On 70's fords the wires are ( except MK1 escort they use 60's codes & ithi k MK1 Capri/transit too)

Red permanent live,

Black live with ignition on,

Brown earth.

 

 

[KELLTINA 23]

6 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

Water will come out yes, the sender should have a white insert in it ( there are different ratings with different colours as an identifier).

There'd wire on int light is permanent live , brown is earth one should be screwed to mount other goes down drvs pillar the to door switches.

On 70's fords the wires are ( except MK1 escort they use 60's codes & ithi k MK1 Capri/transit too)

Red permanent live,

Black live with ignition on,

Brown earth.

 

 

HI Craig. I will check the colour of the insert tomorrow. 

I have a mk5 Crusader and the wiring is stock. Like I said, I have 3 wires connected to the light unit. One solid brown at one end which is earth and at the other end a red which becomes live when I open the door and another solid brown which after testing with a multimeter isn't an earth so I assume it should be a permanent live, I used to be able to switch the interior light on with no keys in the ignition. Now if that permanent live brown wire comes from the module, the module could be at fault. 

I agree with you, I would of thought the red was permanent live, it's not. It's a switchable live. Or at least that's how it's acting. Seems a simple but bizarre set up. But has my limited electrical knowledge stumped. 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 529]

iI've a vague memory of having this problem before & that it doesn't make since how it works!

Will see if my frazzled old brain can remember.