Cortina1975 29 Posted December 31, 2021 Hi all, hope everyone had a good Christmas and made progress with their projects. Big thanks again to everyone whose given friendly advice and help on here. Especially Craig at Sheffield Cortina centre whose been unfailingly kind and helpful with suggestions and sorting me out with a few parts . ..and the guy in Liverpool who sold me a complete interior and gave me a carburettor with manifold (sorry I can't remember your name it was a good few years ago).Classic car people are the best I know this has been covered before but I cant find the post...I'm setting the tie bars on the front suspension and iirc the procedure is to set the wheel centres to 101.5 inches? Is this correct ? atb 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 764 Posted December 31, 2021 Basically yes . 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KKCortina 3 Posted January 3, 2022 Curious about this as I may face the same problem...... a pre-facelift 2.0 GXL (Jan'72 build month)...... tie-bars are off car and may have their "pre-set" position altered (as the nut you shouldn't move has probably shifted a bit during a sand blast/cleaning process!!) How should you reset these by using the above 101.5" rule ......also from which point/edge do you measure this 101.5 in distance ({or whatever distance is used for pre-facelift cars)...... e.g. ...is it from the inner or outer wheel rim etc or some other measure method? If set manually as in above..... would a tyre service depot computerised Laser Tracking/chassis alignment set-up be able to check camber/castor etc more accurately ......... chances are that the early pre-facelift settings are not held on their vehicle database .....if not would the known/quoted official camber/castor settings as per Ford manual be able to be "manually input " to system ............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 169 Posted January 3, 2022 Every cortina I’ve had they have never been the same one side different to the other , I set at 101.5 then take it to get aligned be warmed most place can’t do 13 inch wheels anymore Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 764 Posted January 3, 2022 The distance is centre to centre of wheel. Try to find a smaller company/garage who've been in business along time rather than a Halfords/Kwik fit type place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 169 Posted January 4, 2022 I use a bloke who does race/track cars he still does a lot of 13 inch wheels still but as said big places are a no go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KKCortina 3 Posted January 6, 2022 So..... for a Mk3/4/5 measure from middle of rear wheel (say exact centre of UNBENT chrome/plastic wheel cap) to the equivalent on the front wheel ......should be set 101.5 inches each side - then bring to reliable/old tyre depot to align properly (4 wheel alignment)............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 764 Posted January 6, 2022 Yes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KKCortina 3 Posted January 8, 2022 Thanks Craig - great help to all as usual - hope you have a good New Year 2022! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MK5CortinaEstate 54 Posted January 12, 2022 Problem I found with the wheel centres method is that is needs to be so accurate. Personally, I used a digital level and put it on the threads of the top and bottom ball joints. Worked really well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 764 Posted January 12, 2022 Gunsons do a cheap gauge for this job if you've a flat surface. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 4 Posted December 24, 2025 Sorry to bring up an old post, but I have a question when setting up the tie bars. As I completely stripped out the front suspension to rebuild, I need to set everything up again (well approximately until I can take it to be done at a garage). My question is when setting the tie bars so the front and rear wheel centres are 101.5" apart, how can I make sure the steering is pointing straight ahead? Especially as the tracking will need setting also. I would have thought just a slight turn off centre either way in the steering will throw out any measurement taken? I'm thinking I should set the tracking first so it's in the ball park (my grandad used to use a piece of garden cane between the wheel rims front and back) but then how do I make sure the steering is pointing exactly straight ahead 🤔 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 764 Posted December 24, 2025 To get the steering rack centralised turn the steering full lock ( either way) then turn the opposite way & count the number of turns to reach the other lock, then halves it . This will give you approx straight a head which will do to take it to get it set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 4 Posted December 24, 2025 30 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said: To get the steering rack centralised turn the steering full lock ( either way) then turn the opposite way & count the number of turns to reach the other lock, then halves it . This will give you approx straight a head which will do to take it to get it set. Thanks Craig Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
