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Cortina1975

Starter motor woes - 1975 Cortina 1.6 ohc

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There is always summat!..all was going well and now my 'rebuilt' starter motor has died. I've already fitted new brushes and refaced the brass ring but it now only turns very slowly . 

 

I was wondering what the options are if anyone has some advice - a bit more power would be nice as I'm at something like 10.5:1 compression and the old motor seemed to struggle a bit..

Had a look for another Lucas M35J but they only seem to be listed for minis and OHV Fords ?

 

thanks all 

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Try doing a volts drop test under load on the feed and earth circuits ???   Maybe the motor is fine?

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5 hours ago, John Mack said:

Try doing a volts drop test under load on the feed and earth circuits ???   Maybe the motor is fine?

Thanks John I will try that. I fitted a new battery and checked its fully charged..got me thinking maybe the earth to the motor is poor...

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Always worth adding an extra earth strap to the engine

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If yours is the original inertia type make sure the connections on the wing mounted solonoid are good, if it's the original ford one then these earth through the metal mount to the inner wing so make sure this is clean & solidly mounted.

The aftermarket ones don't need to be earthed.

There are 8-9 or it's 9-10 tooth starter pinions ( can't remember which think it's former) if the wrong one is fitted this can cause problems.

Those starters only differ by mounting plate.

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11 hours ago, dgo said:

Always worth adding an extra earth strap to the engine

 

Thanks dgo. I fitted another earth to the bolt on the starter and the engine still barely turns over :headscratch:

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10 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

If yours is the original inertia type make sure the connections on the wing mounted solonoid are good, if it's the original ford one then these earth through the metal mount to the inner wing so make sure this is clean & solidly mounted.

The aftermarket ones don't need to be earthed.

There are 8-9 or it's 9-10 tooth starter pinions ( can't remember which think it's former) if the wrong one is fitted this can cause problems.

Those starters only differ by mounting plate.

 

Thanks Lord Craig. The origonal solenoid fell apart so fitted a new  China made solenoid. Cleaned up the base anyway but still no joy. 

 

Tried putting power direct to the starter motor but it still barely turns so suspect it's kaput. It's definiely a 10 tooth pinion on there i replaced that with the brushes. 

 

Is there a more modern starter that fits or would i have to change the ring gear ?

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On an ohc you can fit the pre engaged one ( just make sure you get the earlier pre 1980 type with 2 small terminals on solonoid contrary to eBay ads the later sierra etc single wire ones fit but don't work).

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2 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

On an ohc you can fit the pre engaged one ( just make sure you get the earlier pre 1980 type with 2 small terminals on solonoid contrary to eBay ads the later sierra etc single wire ones fit but don't work).

 

FORD CORTINA 2.0 OHC PINTO NEW UPRATED HIGH TORQUE LIGHTWEIGHT STARTER MOTOR | eBay

FORD CAPRI & CORTINA 2.0 PINTO 1974-86 BRAND NEW UPRATED 1.4KW STARTER MOTOR | eBay

 

 

Are these the single wire type ?

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Those are later ones for ones with electronic ignition there's on small terminal between the two M 8 larger ones the opposite side is just soldered.

 

Ignore the location etc of this one but notice on the solonoid there's a bullet on the left & a spade to the right this is the correct 70's type one eBay 134111174623

 

Bosch part number 5010

Lucas part number 25356

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8 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

Those are later ones for ones with electronic ignition there's on small terminal between the two M 8 larger ones the opposite side is just soldered.

 

Ignore the location etc of this one but notice on the solonoid there's a bullet on the left & a spade to the right this is the correct 70's type one eBay 134111174623

 

Bosch part number 5010

Lucas part number 25356

 

Thanks Sir Craig 

Euro car parts sent me this it's got the bullet and spade terminal. Does it look like the early type ?. Would the ring gear need to be turned around I remember something about the chamfer being on the wrong side for an inertia starter ?

mot2.jpg

mot3.jpg

motor.jpg

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Yep that's right one.

I can't remember, they say so, I know I must've mixed & matched loads of times over the years.

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On 2/5/2023 at 11:53 PM, dgo said:

Always worth adding an extra earth strap to the engine

 

I had a problem with mine not starting as it should. Checked the earths, all ok there. Still sluggish to turn over and sometimes wouldn't do anything at all when the ignition switch was in start position.

This peeved me off no end. Starter was a refurbished unit from a local company and is good.

On refitting the battery one day (battery has been on and off many times), the little connection for the thin positive wire broke off.  Replaced it and straight away had instant power to the starter when on flick of the key.

 

Only took me 3 years to find that. :rolleyes:

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Thin wire on positive battery terminal is main feed (fuseable link) to car.

I've supplies all the power  ( carries charge from alt to battery)  except starter motor which is the thick lead.

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15 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

Yep that's right one.

I can't remember, they say so, I know I must've mixed & matched loads of times over the years.

Thanks Dr Craig , measured the pinion gear and it's 26mm diameter on the pre engaged Lucas  and 30 on the old inertia starter. Wondering if the pitch of the teeth could be wrong ?

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