Cortina mk3 not starting

[Heedwa 6]

Hello everyone, again

 

So, fitted a new starter, and engine now turns. Took a while before it fired up but fired up for around 2 seconds before cutting out. 

 

Now it looks and sounds like it wants to start, but just fails to. 

 

I've attached a video below. 

 

Cleaned the spark plugs, but could it be those? Engine isn't flooded as the spark plugs are dry. Had a flame come up from the carburettor, so could it be the air fuel mixture isn't correct? Fitted a portion of the fuel line running along the front with a compression fitting too, could it be it wasn't snug enough? There's no leaks around the joints though. 

 

Any help will do, thanks! 

[Lobby 105]

Possibly timing?

[Heedwa 6]

Could be! I don't see how the timing would've gone off though. Last time I started it it ran fine. 

 

I did turn the engine by hand at one point to make sure the engine hadn't seized. Could that have thrown the timing off? 

 

Timing belt hasn't slipped, as i checked that earlier. 

[chris mk3 325]

Double check timing, fuel pump is working , and that battery doesn't sound like it's got much in, really makes a difference 

[Heedwa 6]

Fuel pump is working (should be!) as it's new, and pumping fuel into the fuel filter. 

 

Battery could be on it's way out so would be a good shout to buy a new one and see if that helps. (although it was tested by an AA mechanic the other day and he said it was fine). 

 

Guess the other thing is to check the timing. 

 

Would hand turning the engine throw the timing off? 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 753]

No that shouldn't .

 

Start from one point electrics or fuel.

Good/charged battery

 

 Check timing, points gap, points power, spark at plug.

 

Fuel in tank, getting to pump, filling carb , coming out of carb

[Heedwa 6]

Out of all those, fuel in the tank is good (roughly 10ltr), it's getting to the pump, and beyond as the fuel filter is full of fuel. So I'm guessing it's getting to the carb too. The few times the engine has started then stopped, I guess that would indicate fuel is filling the carb too? Could the idle speed/mixture need adjusting? 

 

Will check timing, just checked plugs and at least 1 didn't seem to be firing, so just ordered new spark plugs and are on the way so hopefully they make a difference too. And looking for a new battery to order too. Any suggestions on a decent battery? Or any 075 will do? 

 

 

 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 753]

Crack the throttle & check to see if fuel is actually going down the carb throat.

I've always just bought whatever seems a good deal when it comes to batteries.

Edited March 27, 2024 by sheffieldcortinacentre

[Captain Scarlet 96]

Sorry for the obvious question but it hasn't been left with E10 fuel sitting in it has it .

Try a small amount of fresh E5 down the carb.

Failing that, slight corrosion on points,check supply to coil,cranking and not cranking.

Worth checking the four terminals inside the dizzy cap for corrosion.

[Heedwa 6]

Thanks for the replies! 

 

Will check for fuel down the carb this morning. 

 

I've been using the vpower stuff which I think is E5? 

 

Dizzy cap is clean inside, but will check the points today and the supply to coil too. 

 

Thanks for all the advice! Hopefully one of these checks will get to the bottom of it 

[Heedwa 6]

Got the engine started! Changed the spark plugs, and cleaned out the carb filter and it started running. Thank you for all your help! 

 

But onto the next set of problems! 

 

The engine starts up, but sometimes takes a while to start, and turns for a while before the engine runs. 

Once started the engine idles at around 3-4000rpm, I have to give the accelerator a quick press and the idle begins to drop to around 2500rpm and stays here. If it idles any lower the engine begins to cut out. Does this mean the carburetor needs tuning? Or could it be the accelerator cable needs adjusting? 

 

At high revs (over 4000rpm) there is sometimes a loud pop from the exhaust too (is this misfire or back fire?). Again, could this be a carburetor issue? 

 

Thanks for all your help! 

Edited March 29, 2024 by Heedwa

[John Mack 337]

If it were mine I'd let it warm up and switch engine off,  confirm the auto-choke is off, if it isn't then slacken the screws slightly and adjust it.

 

Then I'd turn in the mixture screw, counting how many turns just for reference,  until it stops, don't be forceful or you might damage the thread/screw. Then unscrew 2 turns.

 

Start engine and adjust idle speed screw.

 

The above is assuming the points are in good nic, adjusted correctly and the timing is correct?

 

Worth while checking Haynes manual as there may be a similar type guide for adjusting after carb overhaul??

 

If the above doesn't work then there are other issues, I'd suspect lifting the lid on the carb may be a starting point but only if the ignition side is good.

 

Regarding the accelerator cable, it shouldn't be tight, there needs to be some slack.

 

 

Good luck, happy tinkering! 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 753]

As above  if you can find an old school tuner it would probably be worth getting them to give it the once over.