Heedwa 6 Posted October 20, 2024 Hello Was wondering if anyone could throw any suggestions as I've tried everything I possibly can to get the engine to start again but with no luck. I have a pfl mk3 GT, 1972, with a 2.0 pinto. I changed the valve stem seals last week, set the clearances and put everything back together, but now the engine cranks but doesn't start. I checked for spark, and had a weak spark I think at the king lead, but no sparks on any of the ht leads. Sometimes the engine cranks, but I get no start at all. Sometimes I turn the key and get nothing at all. Sometimes there's a click, sometimes it's just completely dead, not even an ignition light. I've done the following: Changed plugs, points (with correct clearance) and condenser. Changed all ht leads. Cleaned battery earth points, battery terminals and connectors. Changed ballast resistor. Changed ignition switch. Changed fuse nearest to the windscreen. Changed leads from ballast resistor to starter & coil. Changed earth lead from distributor to coil. Changed distributor cap and rotor arm. Put a hot wire from +battery to +coil. Tried another coil. Tried to jump start the battery. Bypassed ballast resistor. Clean all connectors on starter. Tried everything above but still getting no start. Could it possibly by the coil? I did primary and secondary winding tests on the coil, getting 2.2 on primary and 10.46 on secondary. There is also a short from fuse 7 (fuse furthest from the windscreen), but not sure if this has anything to do with creating no spark. I did test a hazard wiring set-up before all this, and forgetting to put an inline fuse in, melted one of the wires. But this was all outside the engine bay, connected directly to the battery. Anyone have any suggestions I could try? Thanks for all your help as usual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 629 Posted October 20, 2024 Check the small wire to the positive battery terminal is in good condition/secure. Make sure the two plugs on bottom of fuse box are secure , make sure the fuse terminals are secure on fuse box ( they're prone to becoming loose after 50 years & causing high resistance) the only fix is soldering or replacing fusebox ( with correct 71 BB version) also check the plug at ignition switch. Some of these should have been tempted cured by hot wiring. Some replacement modern condenser s are faulty try another if available. I'll see if I've any & send you one if still got your address. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 20, 2024 Thanks for the suggestions Craig! I've heard about the small wire to the + side of the battery, but this car never had one ever since I bought it. Is it a yellow wire? There's around 5 inches of small yellow wire attached to the starter, but it doesn't go anywhere, it's just cut off at the end. And the other end (I assume it's the other end of the same wire) is higher up in the loom towards the black and yellow wires coming out from the ballast resistor. The smaller wire that you mention, where does it usually go to from the battery? I have another fuse box so could change that over as well as you suggested. I also have another condenser I think, so will change that again tomorrow. The ignition switch I removed looked a bit damp around where the wires are soldered, so not sure if that could've been a problem. The one I replaced it with was a bit shorter and I had to really stretch it to attach to the plug. All the connectors on the plug seemed clean and dry though. Could the starter be dying? Not sure how to test a starter motor. Also, is it worth buying a new coil to try? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 629 Posted October 21, 2024 For what it'll cost a new coil wouldn't hurt. With points you need a 9v ballast coil all 70's fords use the same one.The ignition SWT should be fine.as long as wires are in same order as one removed. In it's plug. The thin wire from the positive terminal (fuseible link) a dirty greyish colour is joined into the loom within about 6-12 inches, to the thick red/S from the alternator it sends power to the fusebox etc. The yellow wire should go from the big red on the starter solenoid that comes from the battery . It should go into the loom then to the ammeter in the centre console on a GXL/GT this shouldn't effect starting ( mine hasn't worked for over 30 years on yellow one). If engine is turning over fast enough ( with charged battery) starter should be ok. Daft question there is petrol in it 😁? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 21, 2024 (edited) I've been telling myself there is fuel! All the signs for fuel are there. Fuel filter is filled with fuel, and fuel is squirting into the carb, and the whole car stinks of fuel because of how much I've turned the engine. Sparks also smelt of fuel when I changed them, but now that you've asked, I'll have a look inside the tank tomorrow just to be 100% sure there is fuel 😂 The grey wire you mention, the car has never had that. I don't think it's in the Haynes wiring diagram either for the GT. I have an NOS motorcraft condenser which I'll try tomorrow. Is there a multimeter test I can run on the condensers to check they're OK? I'm baffled, because the car started perfect a week ago. I don't understand how it would just die without warning. I feel like I'm missing something that's right in front of my eyes. Edited October 21, 2024 by Heedwa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 629 Posted October 21, 2024 That wire is in the diagram but not obvious see pic. Item 20 (it says brown bit it isn't) it's just a thin bit of wire with a ring connector between thick red in loom ( near battery) & positive terminal. I think there's a way to meter a condensor I'll have to look. Cars are a pain in the ., I'm sure mine plot against me during the night. As you can see from time my insomnia is still in full swing🤯 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
btboy 36 Posted October 21, 2024 You could always spray some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it coughs when you turn it over. Carb may be blocked or float stuck shut. That should then rule out fuel if you have a spark. . Your coil is correctly wired? As Craig says, a new coil may help. You mention cleaning the earth wires - you not missed connecting any? ballast resistor wire (if you have on your car)- all contacts clean ? Points gapped correctly and clean. Rotor arm in? Distributor cap securely on? Simple things but easy to miss! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 21, 2024 (edited) 6 hours ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said: That wire is in the diagram but not obvious see pic. Item 20 (it says brown bit it isn't) it's just a thin bit of wire with a ring connector between thick red in loom ( near battery) & positive terminal. I think there's a way to meter a condensor I'll have to look. Cars are a pain in the ., I'm sure mine plot against me during the night. As you can see from time my insomnia is still in full swing🤯 I hope you got some sleep in after the 5am post! I've looked at the Haynes manual a thousand times and never saw this little brown wire once! But, it's there. I'll look to wire it up. Does the other end of the red cable it's attach he'd to go to the alternator? Goign to fit a condenser now and see if that starts the engine up. Bit the bullet today and decided to go with electric ignition, and bought the kit. I'm guessing they're easy enough to fit, my only question is, what do I do with the ballast resistor that I currently have on the car? Edited October 21, 2024 by Heedwa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 21, 2024 3 hours ago, btboy said: You could always spray some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it coughs when you turn it over. Carb may be blocked or float stuck shut. That should then rule out fuel if you have a spark. . Your coil is correctly wired? As Craig says, a new coil may help. You mention cleaning the earth wires - you not missed connecting any? ballast resistor wire (if you have on your car)- all contacts clean ? Points gapped correctly and clean. Rotor arm in? Distributor cap securely on? Simple things but easy to miss! Thank you for the suggestions! I'll get hold of some carb cleaner and see if that'll help the engine out. There seems to be fuel coming through the carb, as the plugs all smelt of petrol when I took them out. I've double checked most the the ythkgns you've suggested. But you are right, it's something simple but I can't find what it is! Going to go over everything again today Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 629 Posted October 21, 2024 You will need a 12v coil 80's ford all Sierra's , escorts etc. replace the ballast wire with a normal piece of wire. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 22, 2024 Thanks Craig, I'll replace it with a similar wire in thickness. On the car not starting and not getting any spark at the plugs, do you think the distributor itself could be gone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
btboy 36 Posted October 22, 2024 Can you try original ignition switch again as car previously worked with it? I don’t know wiring for your car but that ‘missing’ wire from the battery seems odd. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 22, 2024 29 minutes ago, btboy said: Can you try original ignition switch again as car previously worked with it? I don’t know wiring for your car but that ‘missing’ wire from the battery seems odd. I can try the original switch. It was a bit damp so I've left it out to dry. The back of it was a bit wet too, but that might have been from the contact cleaner I sprayed onto it. You're right, that missing wire is odd. And I never even noticed it in the Haynes manual. But the car was running perfectly without it up until late last week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heedwa 6 Posted October 22, 2024 UPDATE: Changed the ignitinion to the electronic ignition, and the car fired up! This is the first time it's started after I changed the valve stem seals and set valve clearances last week. The engine doesn't sound as smooth as it did previously. Sounds a bit more 'tappy'. I've attached a video. Does this sound normal? Does it sound like the clearances may be too loose? I adjusted the timing with a strobe light after fitting in the electronic ignition, adjusting it to where it was previously as the new ignition threw the timing off. Is it a case of letting the new seals and clearances set over time? Thanks for all the help as usual! 20241022_174652.mp4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Mack 290 Posted October 22, 2024 IF you're happy with your work and that you've set the clearances to the correct specification, using the correct method, then assume the sound is good . Are you familiar with checking/adjusting valve clearances? I hear your recording but my experience of engine noises recorded is that they sound noisier when played back than what they do normally ! That's good you've got it running, what was the "leccy" kit you got? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites