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jezadude

Starting problems

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Hello could anybody please help me? I have attached a link to a short YouTube video of the starting issue. I am having with my 1972 Ford Cortina 1.6  GXL OHC 

would it be possible if anyone has  the time to have a quick look and comment on what they might think my issue is? I would very much appreciate this.

 

If you could leave any comments on the comment section of the YouTube video or you could post them here either way, I would appreciate any feedback thank you

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Do you here the starter click?

It could be worn ignition switch.  Use a piece of wire touch the red & black wires together if it then turns over it's the ignition switch ( circular box) that's worn inside.

The switch's are the same across the range but plug varies so you must make sure you match it.

If it still won't start it could be the inhibitor relay this is fastened to the lower dash or drivers inner wing, to check this again with a piece of wire join the black/yellow wires if it then starts the relay is faulty , replace ( all 70's ford autos use the same one)

The inhibitor switch on g box could be worn try moving selector to neutral  & try starting if this works you'll need a replacement ( prefacelift use the Borg Warner type 35 box ) try a BL specialist as they also used this one, or just start in neutral instead of park.

If this doesn't work check the wires/terminals for physical damage

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It could be a defective ballast,not giving the brief 12v for the spark. Then suddenly it comes into life

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10 hours ago, sierra3dr said:

It could be a defective ballast,not giving the brief 12v for the spark. Then suddenly it comes into life

 

Have you watched the whole video ?!

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Diagnosing an intermittent fault can be a nightmare, especially when as shown in the video you never know if it will happen. Proper diagnosis is difficult if it doesn't do the fault when you check it. 

Before changing any parts I'd suggest trying various safe bypassing tests to see if the fault disappears e.g.as Craig suggested. However you can still not be 100% sure you have found the real fault.

I'd start by one at a time removing starter circuit wires/cables and clean the connections and make sure they are suitably tight (not overtightening) If you do more than one at a time and it solves the problem you don't know which was at fault. 

This is a cranking fault, not a starting fault.

It will be hard for you to sort this as you admit you are a layman mechanically, not your fault, but to put it in the hands of someone else may take ages and cost lots of £'s.

Sorry not a lot of help, suggesting tactics more than diagnosing. Very difficult to diagnose without being hands on with the car. Not being negative but you may have more chance sorting it if it totally fails so fault can be diagnosed.

Good luck.

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2 hours ago, TimB said:

...........you may have more chance sorting it if it totally fails so fault can be diagnosed.

 

Very true. :thumbsup:

 

Maybe someone who knows their way around a mk3 auto might be able to give Jeza a hand, where in Cortina Land are you @jezadude

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Follow on thought, just remembered. Don't know if the auto linkage is the same on a MK5 as a MK3 but on my MK5 the nylon bushes had disappeared/disintegrated making the selector a bit loose and sometimes it affected the connection with the inhibitor switch, causing it to not always engage the starter in P or D. If you look at my posts you can see the story and remedy.

Good luck again

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Yep all 70's fords use the same one.

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On 3/30/2025 at 8:55 AM, John Mack said:

 

Have you watched the whole video ?!

I'm not too sure what I have missed in the footage....it does fire up eventually....the ballast wire in my case,that goes onto the round starter terminal,kept falling off,or not seated on properly,causing no action from the starter. So  on that basis,I was weighing up what Jeremy is experiencing is weak ballast wire

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10 hours ago, sierra3dr said:

I'm not too sure what I have missed in the footage....it does fire up eventually....the ballast wire in my case,that goes onto the round starter terminal,kept falling off,or not seated on properly,causing no action from the starter. So  on that basis,I was weighing up what Jeremy is experiencing is weak ballast wire

 

:thumbsup:  I think you're describing the wire which bypasses the ballast wire, the one between the starter and coil. It gives the coil battery voltage during cranking.

 

The ballast wire is what feeds the coil under normal operation.

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12 hours ago, John Mack said:

 

:thumbsup:  I think you're describing the wire which bypasses the ballast wire, the one between the starter and coil. It gives the coil battery voltage during cranking.

 

 

I am yes....but Jeremy has yet to return

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9 hours ago, sierra3dr said:

I am yes....but Jeremy has yet to return

:thumbsup:

 

Driven off into the sunset perhaps ?!

 

 :car:

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Hello everybody it’s me Jeza. I didn’t drive off into the sunset although it sounds great. I just did not see these posts. I must’ve been half asleep. I only saw a message from Craig inviting me to call him which I did try once without success and haven’t had a chance to try again so thank you all very very much for the information you have supplied here and I think the problem should be solved with testing out all these ideas, but I will probably have to pay a mechanic to do it and spend the money. It’s just one of the unfortunate things that comes with not knowing much about engines but it’s okay. I will let you all know here what happens when I get around to getting it sorted I hope you all see this message because I know the posts are now a few weeks old, once again thank you all.

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Keep trying I'm not much use in the morning .

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17 hours ago, jezadude said:

Hello everybody it’s me Jeza.

 

Sorry to hear you're not sunset bound ?!  .....as above though maybe there's a cortina nut in your area that might swing by and take a look if tea and biscuits were available !

 

Hope you can get it sorted.

 

:thumbsup:

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