Clearing flooded engine and ignition key hole problem

[Dinoplex 3]

Me again with yet another random problem that got me stranded this time 

I parked the tc2/mk4 in the gyms parking lot and after i came back to the car to head home it didnt start. Since my automatic choke isnt adjusted correctly (1.6 pinto 1v carb) i kept pumping thinking its just not getting enough fuel but no still nothing. I then popped the hood and saw that somehow the ign coil to distributor wire has completely broken off from the distributor section and the distributor cap was also a bit loose and not seated fully. The tip of the wire is still attached to the distributor but the rest of the wire had broken away and was dangling and the wire is only a year old. Then i realized that i also flooded the engine when i pumped the gas quite a bit. Sadly i had no new wire to swap it out , i tried to put the broken wire back in and duck taped it and floored the pedal and kept it floored while cranking to try and clear the flood and cranked for a total of maybe 40 seconds (in 3 different tries to not kill the starter) it kinda wanted to start but still didnt so i just had to leave it there, not sure if its still flooded or just not getting enough spark due to broken wire (it was also backfiring from the intake into the air cleaner). I plan on coming back to it in a couple of days with a new wire, will the flood clear itself when sitting like that for a couple of days or should i remove all spark plugs and then turn the engine over to clear the flood that way. Also the wire was new, i wonder if the bodyshop somehow damaged them during the rust repairs in the cowl area or maybe if they knocked off the distributor cap a bit from its seat, could that have caused the wire to break within that one week due to not correctly seated distributor cap?. Or maybe is it a case of just new parts being trash in quality i dont know

Also another issue that worried me a lot more, the key doesnt really wanna go into the ignition key hole. Like the key hole itself has plunged inside to its housing a bit. I could still somewhat turn the key after giving it a couple tries but the key is absolutely not all the way in and doesnt wanna go all the way in. I can even remove the key in any position. I left it in 1 to clear the steering lock in case if i need to tow it and need to have a functioning steering wheel. The bodyshop also damaged the ignition key hole during the assembly and that was repaired before i picked the car up last week but now suddently its acting up again despite being "fixed". Im wondering what could be causing it to plunge into its housing.

Thanks a lot in advance again 

[sheffieldcortinacentre 704]

The petrol will have evaporated by now, the problem will be the broken wire.

The lock is supposed to go in a few mm when the key is in, it sounds like the key is worn ( they are brass) after 40 years of use, you need to get a new one cut.

[Dinoplex 3]

12 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

The petrol will have evaporated by now, the problem will be the broken wire.

The lock is supposed to go in a few mm when the key is in, it sounds like the key is worn ( they are brass) after 40 years of use, you need to get a new one cut.

I see thanks, i ll get a new wire and try it in a couple days hopefully the distributor cap is still fine and not burnt out since it wasnt attached on properly and i drove like that for a week. I shoulda just checked it but it never crossed my mind that the cap wouldnt be fully seated after it came back from bodyshop.

Also i got a new key grinded last year and i ve been using that one, keeping the original one as "spare" since then. The problem with mine currently is that the lock is always "in" and doesnt pop out when the key isnt inserted and i had to really wiggle the key to get it half way in to be able to turn on the ignition etc and after that halfway in it doesnt wanna go in any further. Weirdest part is it was all fine on my way there, then i get back in the car after the gym and then lock kept staying in that "in" position its basically stuck there now and the key doesnt wanna go in all the way now.

[sheffieldcortinacentre 704]

Ok that could be worn tumblers inside the lock which would need a rebuild or a replacement lock.

Your to far away but this is something I do regularly.

To remove the barrel from the housing the lock/with key in needs to be in either position 1 or 2 ( it varies) then you need to press the spring in ( in a slot about halfway down housing) you will then be able to pull the lock barrel out.

I doubt you'll find a rebuild kit nowadays, so you'll have to fit a new or used barrel with key.

All TC 1- 3 ( Facelift 74 onwards) use the same one , as do mk1-2 Granada ( for some reason MK2 escort is a mirror image so won't engage properly) .

The job is fiddly rather than complex. Any problems pm me & I'll try to explain.

Edited November 23 by sheffieldcortinacentre

[Dinoplex 3]

1 hour ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

Ok that could be worn tumblers inside the lock which would need a rebuild or a replacement lock.

Your to far away but this is something I do regularly.

To remove the barrel from the housing the lock/with key in needs to be in either position 1 or 2 ( it varies) then you need to press the spring in ( in a slot about halfway down housing) you will then be able to pull the lock barrel out.

I doubt you'll find a rebuild kit nowadays, so you'll have to fit a new or used barrel with key.

All TC 1- 3 ( Facelift 74 onwards) use the same one , as do mk1-2 Granada ( for some reason MK2 escort is a mirror image so won't engage properly) .

The job is fiddly rather than complex. Any problems pm me & I'll try to explain.

I see thanks a lot for the information and the help i really appreciate it  I dont know what they did to "fix" it 1-2 weeks ago but seems like whatever they did didnt work. Great to know that its same as TC3, so i ll try to get this new one and replace it
https://www.fordtoptancisi.com/urun/kontak-anahtari-taunus?srsltid=AfmBOoobKrZ2P4-d4C0KVLdTzOqU4qqpJbRqZF0_Hj5sbTEWa-mUuO06 
when i put this in its gonna be like pre 74 cars with dual keys right? Now i will have this key for ignition and the other original keys for the doors and trunk. Also im really . at understanding stuff without pictures so i ll also check if theres any pictures about it in the german workshop manual and the haynes cortina mk4 one

Btw could the lock fail any further than it already is? When i replace the wire i ll try to drive it home by wiggling the key half way which seemed to work today i could turn the engine over etc. While im driving back could it fail further and lock the steering wheel or something?

Also not sure i can find actual pinto specific coil to distributor wire in my immediate vicinity, would a random spark plug wire for other makes (fiat 131 and renault 12) work on the pinto as well for the coil to distributor wire, i could get the proper wire later from internet, just need something for now to bring the car back home.

[sheffieldcortinacentre 704]

Yes any wire should be fine.

 

Far as I know it's in the ford factory workshop manual.

As long as the key is in you should be ok,