sheffieldcortinacentre 741 Posted March 26 None of that should effect the camber, mine is perfectly fine with the sbf 302 it's been in 23 years & settings are still same. All the cradles will interchange. Geometry needs to be checked with vehicle on level ground with weight on it , checking it as per photos it will be wrong ( dunno by how much but definitely wrong). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 26 Just measured and the chassis rails are 712.5mm apart, so that sounds correct. My logic is this, if the wheels are sitting out at the top with the engine and box in place ie, positive camber, and the position of the top wishbone dictates the camber of the wheel along with the position of the lower arm, and both have fixed pivot points on the subframe, then it can only be flex in the subframe that could throw this out! 🤔 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 26 41 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said: None of that should effect the camber, mine is perfectly fine with the sbf 302 it's been in 23 years & settings are still same. All the cradles will interchange. Geometry needs to be checked with vehicle on level ground with weight on it , checking it as per photos it will be wrong ( dunno by how much but definitely wrong). Yes have been checking with weight on the ground, the pics were just some I took whilst I had it up in the air Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 26 Here's as couple of pics as it sits now, the square I have leant against the tyre at the top is to give a visual of how far out it is as the garage floor is perfectly level, I have been checking the actual camber with an angle metre and on this side it is 2° positive Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 158 Posted March 26 (edited) I always leave everything loose on the front and let it sit on its wheels and then tighten them up goes for rear end to Edited March 26 by J2S Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 158 Posted March 26 (edited) I think they might to heavy a spring Or shocks are stuck Id go with the spring it's got that arc when you fot them and it's still got some Take shocks out see if that helps I run Shortened but I'm a lot lower Edited March 26 by J2S Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 158 Posted March 26 I've had problems with front springs to All from are well know ford tunnig shop Sending out different rates springs with the same numbers on the springs Been through a few sets 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 741 Posted March 26 You meen Burton power , trouble is if at ain't an escort then no one has a clue. They all tend to sell ohc springs as that's most common setup no matter what you order. Years ago there were several spring makers in Sheffield now don't think there's one, we've no panel shop or radiator shop as far as I know. I used to go & they had specs for all sorts of makes & models. Inc 3.0 cortinas. That's like mine was except opposite way so neg camber. If you redrill lower arm mount roughly 10 mm further out it should be roughly right, as again I'd that inwards to correct it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 26 15 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said: You meen Burton power , trouble is if at ain't an escort then no one has a clue. They all tend to sell ohc springs as that's most common setup no matter what you order. Years ago there were several spring makers in Sheffield now don't think there's one, we've no panel shop or radiator shop as far as I know. I used to go & they had specs for all sorts of makes & models. Inc 3.0 cortinas. That's like mine was except opposite way so neg camber. If you redrill lower arm mount roughly 10 mm further out it should be roughly right, as again I'd that inwards to correct it. Thanks Craig, I'm trying to get the tops in though rather than bring the bottom arms out as I need the wheel arch/tyre clearance. Not sure how I can check if Burton power have give me the correct spring rate, I mean I ordered the standard rate OHC springs -1" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 26 57 minutes ago, J2S said: I think they might to heavy a spring Or shocks are stuck Id go with the spring it's got that arc when you fot them and it's still got some Take shocks out see if that helps I run Shortened but I'm a lot lower Thanks, so assuming for a minute I have been supplied too heavier a spring, how does that push the top wishbone out further? As it has a fixed pivot point I'm struggling to understand how a stronger spring can effect that dimension? I don't think the shocks are stuck as the car bounces up and down nicely Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgo 80 Posted March 26 Rally Design used to sell a range of spring strengths and lengths. Might be worth giving them a call to see if that can still get those Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheffieldcortinacentre 741 Posted March 26 Always had good results with rally design. The spring rate is that is how much it takes to squash them 1in. Some say you can put them on a bathroom scale & get someone to measure the spring length while you push down on it & read the amount. So if your spring is supposed to be 230 lb/in & is 12 in tall , it should take that to push the spring down to 11in. Hope that makes sense. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J2S 158 Posted March 26 3 hours ago, Stuwindsurf said: Thanks, so assuming for a minute I have been supplied too heavier a spring, how does that push the top wishbone out further? As it has a fixed pivot point I'm struggling to understand how a stronger spring can effect that dimension? I don't think the shocks are stuck as the car bounces up and down nicely Think off it if it was standard and you taken the engine out normally the car will lift and give you positive camper Was they hard to fit to long maybe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 27 (edited) So just been having a good look and noticed another Major problem, so I set the tracking up with the car on the floor, weight on the wheels and got it more or less spot on. I have just raised it up on the lift and with the suspension relaxed, ie wheels hanging, the wheels toe in drastically. Rear measurement between the rims 47.25" and front measurement between the rims 45.75". So that means the wheels are toeing in 1.5" as the suspension drops!! There has to be something not right. What wcould cause the wheels to toe in that amount as the suspension drops?.... Are the top wishbones handed? Maybe I have them on the wrong sides if so?? Edited March 27 by Stuwindsurf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuwindsurf 2 Posted March 27 14 hours ago, J2S said: Think off it if it was standard and you taken the engine out normally the car will lift and give you positive camper Was they hard to fit to long maybe I see what you're saying, I put them next to the originals before I fitted them and they sat 1" lower. The spring thickness looked the same as the originals Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
