DMT
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DMT last won the day on November 11 2023
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1 NeutralAbout DMT
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Ebay ID
dave60136
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Current Car
Cortina Mk1 GT
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Thanks John, I can see how that would work, after a night's sleep to "clear the cache" but I think I have found my problem. In the picture, the cam pulley mark (up by 8cm on the ruler) is in line with the centres, yes it is about 180 deg out, but I'm not quite on TDC, it shows that it's about half a tooth* out at the crank sprocket, making it one tooth out at the cam. * It's actually a bit less than a whole tooth, but how could it be anything else? What I didn't say before is that when trying to set the timing on the fully assembled engine, when set to TDC the timing marks lined up at about 8 degrees on the timing cover. This looks like what has been preventing me from getting the timing right. What I'm hoping now is that I can get the cam sprocket off without having to get the tensioner out of the way.
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Hi Guys, After wrestling with my MK1 GT trying to get it running right, desperation drove us to checking the cam timing and lo and behold it is 180 degrees out i.e. the crank sprocket mark points to the cam centre, but the cam sprocket mark is facing away, towards the battery. A major problem is that the engine is in the car with the sump in place. The question is, with the valves in the correct position for compression on No1 and thus the cam sprocket 180 deg out, can I get the cam chain off then rotate the crankshaft so that No4 is on compression? I think rotating the engine when this is reassembled would then bring it so that the timing marks are aligned adjacent to each other at No1 TDC. Or would I have to rotate the cam etc? I apologise if this doesn't make sense, my brain is a bit fried at this point.
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A very late conclusion to this thread; It turns out that what I have is a bit of a bonus, it's an actual Corsair 2000E box, bell housing etc. so a better set of ratios
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Thanks for the good luck wish Tim, it worked. New mounts are in and the rattling and banging is 99% gone. Something is still clonking occasionally but I think it might be a ball joint - strange, it got a fresh MOT last week. A tip for anyone doing this, I put a small chamfer, maybe 0.7mm, on the undersides of the bearing carriers on the mounts and also put a smear of grease in the bore. We spent half an hour trying to get it done before the chamfer and five minutes after and the second one went in a treat.
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......Some time later: I got some 45mm shorter strut inserts from Gaz, it has taken a long time to get them fitted. The springs are now just compressed at full droop. However, what we found by looking up the units that came out was that I had Volvo 240 inserts and modified Volvo top mounts, which goes some way to explaining why I had those crazy long springs perhaps. The diameter of the rods is now smaller than the mounts and there is still rattling. I now have some proper top mounts from RetroFord to fit - wish me luck please, I think I'm due some!
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I had a similar problem on my 1966 Mk1 GT with an early 10v type sender in a later 5v system. I believe the tank fitting is different on the 5v versions so I needed to find a cure. I have found that putting an 80 ohm resistor in parallel with the Empty = 237-273Ω - Full = 16-22Ω sender has given me a useable gauge. It is rather inaccurate at the full end of the scale but more importantly the needle sits in the red zone when there are 5 litres left in the tank.
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Oh no it wasn't resolved! It was flattering to deceive, I'd just got lucky a few times, the problem persisted even though the stick movement seems better. So, I trawled around for a gearbox re-builder and found "First Motion Transmissions" in Baldock near Stevenage. Paul there pretty much knew what was wrong when I called him and he turned out to know gearboxes inside out. About three weeks after dropping the box off with him it is now back in the car and working properly, the action going into reverse has to be very deliberate and precise but it is bedding in now. The problems were the 1st/2nd hub and the reverse idler as pictured, you can clearly see the rounded off edges of the teeth. Paul reckoned that the gear stick had not been travelling far enough. So now I have all new bearings, seals, fresh oil etc. I might actually be able to get some mileage out of this beast at last
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Further to this, having now got the car on the road after a myriad of problems I have found that there are knocking sounds from the suspension when going over bumps. Checking thins out I find that, with a 6 1/2" steel wheel and tyre on place, the strut extends when on full droop and the noise are the springs rattling in their mounts. Has anyone else out there had this problem, and if so, did you manage to fix it somehow? It's looking as though I might have to get a set of standard springs:-(
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Hi Guys, thanks for all the great info. My clutch parts look the same as the pictures the only difference being that I have yellow springs on the friction plate with the same 20 splines. The only ID I can find is the number 47238 on the friction plate which ties in with various old MGs and Triumphs. I have a replacement plate part No. CL1 from the club it has no markings on it.. I can't confirm the bell housing number but it looks like the photo, I note that this has internal ribs that are not present on the ones illustrated in the parts list book or manuals, so the larger standard driven plate would probably foul. I found a picture of a Mk1 Lotus housing which has ribs and a diaphragm clutch but the slave cylinder mounting is different. The slave cylinder looks the same as in the supplied photo, with the code G7F stamped on the body, it is very much the big brother of the Mk1 cylinder I have bought. The plate between the back of the engine and the gearbox is as per the photo which is different from what I expected on a Mk1, might this be a MK2 part as well?
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Great service from Gaz for the new springs. Having put them in, the car looks much better with the 175 tyres about in line with the wheel arches about 3 " lower than it was. The springs that came out were 13 1/2" high, no wonder the front was sitting high.
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DMT started following Mystery Clutch
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I've taken the engine out of my Mk1 GT to cure an oil leak and to change the clutch in case of contamination. I found a diaphragm clutch, the operating lever sits on a bracket on the bell housing,, the C shaped link to the release bearing isn't there and the slave cylinder is about twice the size. That cylinder has a code G7F on it which I think makes it a Mk2 part, it must have a larger hole in the bell housing so I'm stuck with that size of cylinder. The clutch was jerky before, there is no oil on the friction plate but there are odd wear marks on the friction and driven plate so I was right to be suspicious of them, they do need replacing. So, am I looking at a Mk2 setup? The actual friction plate is the standard 7 1/2" size. I have replacements for the standard GT items, would I be better to get a Mk2 driven plate or try the finger type? I don't want to do the job twice.
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Thanks for the advice guys, I now have springs on order at a quite reasonable £60 each plus the usual additions. Gaz have them made to special order,
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Hi, I've trawled the web, with no luck, looking for someone who can supply lowering springs for my Mk1 GT. Can anyone out there suggest a supplier? - Thanks
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Hi, The gearbox problem has now been resolved, the radiused part of the plastic guide had worn to a slope and thus the gearstick would not engage accurately. A new block and setting up the link clearance has cured the problem. The whole thing was in dire need of some grease too, which wasn't helping. Thanks for the help
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Thanks, I'll check it out