DMT

Hi Guys, thanks for all the great info. My clutch parts look the same as the pictures the only difference being that I have yellow springs on the friction plate with the same 20 splines. The only ID I can find is the number 47238 on the friction plate which ties in with various old MGs and Triumphs. I have a replacement plate part No. CL1 from the club it has no markings on it.. I can't confirm the bell housing number but it looks like the photo, I note that this has internal ribs that are not present on the ones illustrated in the parts list book or manuals, so the larger standard driven plate would probably foul. I found a picture of a Mk1 Lotus housing which has ribs and a diaphragm clutch but the slave cylinder mounting is different. The slave cylinder looks the same as in the supplied photo, with the code G7F stamped on the body, it is very much the big brother of the Mk1 cylinder I have bought. The plate between the back of the engine and the gearbox is as per the photo which is different from what I expected on a Mk1, might this be a MK2 part as well?

Great service from Gaz for the new springs. Having put them in, the car looks much better with the 175 tyres about in line with the wheel arches about 3 " lower than it was. The springs that came out were 13 1/2" high, no wonder the front was sitting high.

I've taken the engine out of my Mk1 GT to cure an oil leak and to change the clutch in case of contamination. I found a diaphragm clutch, the operating lever sits on a bracket on the bell housing,, the C shaped link to the release bearing isn't there and the slave cylinder is about twice the size. That cylinder has a code G7F on it which I think makes it a Mk2 part, it must have a larger hole in the bell housing so I'm stuck with that size of cylinder. The clutch was jerky before, there is no oil on the friction plate but there are odd wear marks on the friction and driven plate so I was right to be suspicious of them, they do need replacing. So, am I looking at a Mk2 setup? The actual friction plate is the standard 7 1/2" size. I have replacements for the standard GT items, would I be better to get a Mk2 driven plate or try the finger type? I don't want to do the job twice.

Thanks for the advice guys, I now have springs on order at a quite reasonable £60 each plus the usual additions. Gaz have them made to special order,

Hi, I've trawled the web, with no luck, looking for someone who can supply lowering springs for my Mk1 GT. Can anyone out there suggest a supplier? - Thanks

Hi, The gearbox problem has now been resolved, the radiused part of the plastic guide had worn to a slope and thus the gearstick would not engage accurately. A new block and setting up the link clearance has cured the problem. The whole thing was in dire need of some grease too, which wasn't helping. Thanks for the help

Thanks, I'll check it out

I have the standard GT remote gearshift, I'm led to believe it has an adjustable stop on it and a plastic guide that can wear.

Thanks for the advice, it sounds as though it would actually be easier to get the engine out because of wanting to change the clutch and the top part of the seal.

Thanks for your reply. Oh well, the car was going to be in the garage over the winter

Hi All, I'm a newbie to this forum, I've just become the proud owner of a 1966 Mk1 Cortina GT, I last had a Cortina in 1979, those Cortinas back then were fairly bombproof but rusted like mad.. I've got a few minor problems to sort out, but there are two major ones: Firstly the gearbox has a huge reluctance to engage reverse, the position on the gearstick doesn't feel any different between nothing, grating teeth and actually engaged. Does anyone have advice in this please. Obviously the box will have to come out which leads to the other main problem, the rear crankshaft oil seal, it seems to be this that is leaving little puddles wherever I go and maybe has contaminated the clutch, Is it possible to replace the seals without removing the engine? The top half of the seal is on a separate casting, but it's the lower one in the sump that worries me, I know that you can't drop the sump far because of the crossmember. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. - Dave