adrianb

I’ve managed to get the lever and mechanism. I’m now after just the interior trim and cover. I’d consider a broken one if it was still usable.

I’m looking for a complete automatic gear selector mechanism. Including the interior trim, stick and ‘T’ handle. I think these might be same across Granada, Capri and Escort - any will do as long as it’s period correct. Thanks. Adrian.

Hi Craig. I’ll let you know if I find any. Adrian.

I know this is actually a Sierra part but I’m hopping someone here may be able to help me out. I’m after the plastic cups which hold the fuel injectors into the cylinder head of the 2.0 8v DOHC. The ford part number is 6171202. Perhaps someone’s got a worn out head and would be prepared to prise out the cups for a suitable fee. I’ve attached a photo of the one good one I have left. Height is 21mm. Top opening od=20mm id=18mm Bottom opening od=17mm id=11mm

Thanks chaps, problem now solved. My brother fitted a new (correct) clutch and it’s working fine. Adrian

Could you clarify how the bellhousings differ Steve. We’re there two different lengths of bellhousing? Thanks.

Thanks again. My brother’s discussed the options with his customer and they’ve decided to try a new clutch and bearing kit first. That should eliminate any mismatched parts that may have been fitted in the past. Fingers crossed.

Will these fit the MK2?

Thanks for those suggestions. What’s the easiest way to identify the different release mechanisms, especially the bearing?

My brother has a Morgan 4/4 in his workshop which is fitted with a Cortina MK2 engine and gearbox. The clutch does not disengage. This is not a new problem, the clutch has never worked properly. The owner bought the car fully restored from a Morgan dealer. They got round the problem by adjusting the stroke of the pedal to give more travel. However the pedal is so far back that you need to dislocate your ankle to get your foot on it! My brother’s getting conflicting advice about the parts of the release mechanism that are fitted and if they are the correct ones. The engine is a 1600 cross flow mated to a bullet 2000e gearbox with a bell housing from a Mk2 Cortina (1966-70). We’ve tracked down the MK2 workshop manual but it only shows the later type 3 gearbox. The casting number on the bell housing indicates it is from a MK2 cortina rather than the MK1. Burton Power supply a series of parts that extend the release bearing carrier, bringing it closer to the clutch thus restoring the movement. However they won't fit the existing release arm because the bearing carrier on the car is held to the release arm by lugs that clip to the lever arm and are integral to the carrier. The new parts use small coil springs to hold the bearing carrier on. He has partly got it to work by using a threaded actuating rod with a large dia nut on it that rests on the mouth of the slave cylinder, this stops the clutch from becoming too far disengaged. Just enough to release the clutch and allow gear changing but not enough to release the bearing from the clutch diaphragm springs but the release bearing will wear out quickly as it never fully releases. So he’s wondering if the wrong release mechanism has been fitted, and if there’s an alternative that will work better, or if that this engine/gearbox combination just won’t work properly. Thanks. Adrian.

Thanks for the info. My voltage regulator is the black plastic one, like the first picture. My kit uses the full dash from the MKV cortina and it mounts in the car as it does in the Cortina. I’ve previously swapped the clocks for a set with the Rev counter and I’m using the Sierra DOHC engine. I’ll keep investigating.

I can’t seem to get to the bottom of a long standing problem with my fuel and temperature gauges on my MKV based kit car. Both gauges work but the fuel gauge reads high and the temp gauge reads low. I thought the problem would be bad wiring connections but they are all cleaned up now on the feed side and the earth side. Both gauges go to zero with the power off and both go to max when grounded so I think they are OK. I’ve tried two spare voltage regulators (but they may not be the correct ones) but they didn’t cure it. Does anyone know how to ID the voltage stabiliser? My dash is the one with the rev counter. Any bright ideas?

Thanks both - spoilt for choice. Could you PM me price plus postage to SY21 0DQ. That’s mid-Wales so I’m not very near either of you sadly. If they happen to be dark blue that’d clinch it.

Does anyone have a pair of bonnet hinges to fit MK4 Cortina? Mine became an interesting shape when the bonnet catch let go and the bonnet flipped back on itself!

It looks as if the replacement gas shocks have all been discontinued. I’ve tried a number of the manufactures (KYB, Monroe, Gabriel etc) and they all say they were discontinued around 2015/16. I did splash out on adjustable ones a few years ago but despite haveing them rebuilt once, one has failed again. I also find the top bolt seizes inside the Bush. I’ve just spent 12 hours getting one off. I’ve got my MOT next Wednesday so I’ll put on a pair of oil ones. Thanks for your time and advice.