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Dave A

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Posts posted by Dave A

  1. Posted

    Wow, what a load of spares, you got his whole extensive collection....cheap too!! That's a brilliant shine on those hubcaps for being the stainless ones...I always thought the chrome ones were a bit shinier. I presume your series 1 door seals the sort of flat  sealing edge vs the tubular series 2 type. Are they all molded to fit into the upper channel and lower retaining clips? 

  2. Posted

    It's stunning that you could achieve such a nice filler panel...I don't think I could come up with that. Really shows what can be done with a true craftsman. Front wings in fairly alright condition for their age.... we had a 69 Cortina and by 1976 the front wings were worse than those here in Atlantic Canada.  Yes those bonnet strips are hard to come by and very dear also.

  4. Posted

     You could rebuild what you have there or 2.0L etc. As mentioned above there are some nice modern 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine upgrades that can be fitted however will take more time, fabricating skills, tools,  shop, equipment and money to complete depending on how you go about it. The car is very nice and rust free too! Are there any other Cortinas around your parts of the world? 

  6. Posted

    I have one from a LHD Series 2 Light Blue 2 dr GT that also reads 9bL 2G  4FD . On the lower row it has more numbers than some tags I have here...must further define the unit..it reads 34G509. The sequence (big) number is 3261. 

     

    My guess after looking at all my tags is that the 9= model year, B=mk 2, L=LHD, 2=2 door? Not sure.

  11. Posted

    You mentioned worse after full throttle has been used...can that LPG setup create any type of air restriction...what if you move the LPG and try it without?  Also does your air cleaner draw incoming air from under the bonnet or outside air?  I doubt you have a heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold but if so make sure it isn't staying closed or overtemp of carb/intake manifold will occur. Just shots in the dark really. Anything to cool under bonnet temps also aid hot carb operation, like good cooling system, aluminum rads, proper fan setup etc good flowing exhaust system. Rerouting, wrapping fuel lines can help. 

  13. Posted

    You better keep good plug wires on that sucker. I'm sure by the sounds of it you keep an extinguisher handy in the car. Hope you get her sorted soon. Could block that transfer tube to the rear bowl and see what happens...

  14. Posted

    Is this something that only happens hot or could it do it with the engine ice cold? I have seen those tin/steel plates under the carb to help deflect the heat around the bowls...todays fuels seems can boil easier...however that type of boiling issue is usually worse after a hot soak shutdown accompanied with a hard restart hot only.

     

    When it does it, I wonder if it drives the fuel up through the rear bowl vent?

  17. Posted

    25 minutes ago, sheffieldcortinacentre said:

    Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated as not used it for a couple of years as would be devastated it caught fire & feel every trip is one closer to this happening.

    Sorry for thread hijack pm me if would help.

    Thanks Craig.

    Did you try a new needle & seat in it again Craig.? Try 2 new needle and seat /gasket assys...they will come out the top of the float bowl without removing bowl. set front and rear float levels level to the bottom of the sight plug/glass. When/if lowering rear float you may have to recheck it a couple of times as secondaries have to be opened to drop the fuel level to the new level.Careful tightening them up not to overtighten.  Is there a filter at or near carb inlet? Cant be fuel pressure related if did it on mechanical pump. Electric pumps cannot produce more than about 4-6 psi at the carb either with a low pressure pump or regulated with a return line

  19. Posted

    On 4/7/2019 at 1:02 PM, LagoonBlue said:

    Must be the drainage holes mainly, they are a little bigger than usual. Even doors on my spares car were fairly ok and that one was thoroughly rotten, held together by only the roof.

     

    This weekends weather was nice so got a fair bit done on the bootlid.

    bootlip.thumb.jpg.ace73f1bf5d26f5433b3c23cbd189122.jpg

    I sandblasted edges all around and patched the straight(ish) bit on the rear lip. Corner will have to be done in more of a piecemeal fashion.

     

    warpcheck.thumb.jpg.2d28406ca75c27bf75253dfa83952e58.jpg

    This was the simplest way i could think of how to check the lines. Bottom lid is even more rusty but otherwise untouched. Of course what really matters is how it fits on the car.

    There is little warping from the welding and couple old dents and dings but overall not hopeless. Bad place to put any filler so i will try to get it as close to original shape as i can.

     

    How it fits on the car...how true...I've had some spare panels like bonnets especially require a lot of tweaking if usable at all. Fit and finish on these cars was pretty good for it's time but there was some room for improvement compared to todays cars. I'm sure you will have that boot lid  closer to original than original was itself!

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