Dave A

Wow, what a load of spares, you got his whole extensive collection....cheap too!! That's a brilliant shine on those hubcaps for being the stainless ones...I always thought the chrome ones were a bit shinier. I presume your series 1 door seals the sort of flat sealing edge vs the tubular series 2 type. Are they all molded to fit into the upper channel and lower retaining clips?

It's stunning that you could achieve such a nice filler panel...I don't think I could come up with that. Really shows what can be done with a true craftsman. Front wings in fairly alright condition for their age.... we had a 69 Cortina and by 1976 the front wings were worse than those here in Atlantic Canada. Yes those bonnet strips are hard to come by and very dear also.

Wow! You must be well pleased with that!!!!

You could rebuild what you have there or 2.0L etc. As mentioned above there are some nice modern 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine upgrades that can be fitted however will take more time, fabricating skills, tools, shop, equipment and money to complete depending on how you go about it. The car is very nice and rust free too! Are there any other Cortinas around your parts of the world?

I see that vin code of 97 you have there is for a 4 door GT.

I have one from a LHD Series 2 Light Blue 2 dr GT that also reads 9bL 2G 4FD . On the lower row it has more numbers than some tags I have here...must further define the unit..it reads 34G509. The sequence (big) number is 3261. My guess after looking at all my tags is that the 9= model year, B=mk 2, L=LHD, 2=2 door? Not sure.

No kick panels not right. The one parcel shelf looked right for RHD.

Looks like lots of enjoyment there. Have a fun summer and be safe with her.

Sweet!

I would be well chuffed with that! Just lovely!!!

You mentioned worse after full throttle has been used...can that LPG setup create any type of air restriction...what if you move the LPG and try it without? Also does your air cleaner draw incoming air from under the bonnet or outside air? I doubt you have a heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold but if so make sure it isn't staying closed or overtemp of carb/intake manifold will occur. Just shots in the dark really. Anything to cool under bonnet temps also aid hot carb operation, like good cooling system, aluminum rads, proper fan setup etc good flowing exhaust system. Rerouting, wrapping fuel lines can help.

Slick little slide hammer set up there. Amazing how many things can be repurposed with some ingenuity....looks like an old strut rod is it? How does that shrinking disc work?

You better keep good plug wires on that sucker. I'm sure by the sounds of it you keep an extinguisher handy in the car. Hope you get her sorted soon. Could block that transfer tube to the rear bowl and see what happens...

Is this something that only happens hot or could it do it with the engine ice cold? I have seen those tin/steel plates under the carb to help deflect the heat around the bowls...todays fuels seems can boil easier...however that type of boiling issue is usually worse after a hot soak shutdown accompanied with a hard restart hot only. When it does it, I wonder if it drives the fuel up through the rear bowl vent?

Sweet! You must be well pleased with that!!!

Look at that....there's always something to keep the monkeys tail short.

Did you try a new needle & seat in it again Craig.? Try 2 new needle and seat /gasket assys...they will come out the top of the float bowl without removing bowl. set front and rear float levels level to the bottom of the sight plug/glass. When/if lowering rear float you may have to recheck it a couple of times as secondaries have to be opened to drop the fuel level to the new level.Careful tightening them up not to overtighten. Is there a filter at or near carb inlet? Cant be fuel pressure related if did it on mechanical pump. Electric pumps cannot produce more than about 4-6 psi at the carb either with a low pressure pump or regulated with a return line

Makes sense what you are saying...oh i'm sure it will work just fine and maybe better. I see in mk2 manual master bores listed from .625, .70, .75 to .813 (13/16) on gt and wagons. wheel cyls were .70. .75 or .875

How it fits on the car...how true...I've had some spare panels like bonnets especially require a lot of tweaking if usable at all. Fit and finish on these cars was pretty good for it's time but there was some room for improvement compared to todays cars. I'm sure you will have that boot lid closer to original than original was itself!

What a nice car....I like that!

Good to know....thanks for that Steve.

Correct me if I am wrong...the smaller the bore of the master cylinder the higher the pressure at the wheel.

Just read through this for the first time...what an amazing restoration....the savage is stunning!

This is so very sad.

Nice choice on the girling master cylinder. Reservoir looks just like my mk 2. What bore size is this cylinder?