Jakub

Cortiny jedynki nie miałem, ale obiło mi się o uszy że układ z taunusa tc1/2/3 pasuje po drobnych modyfikacjach. Nie wiem ile w tym jest prawdy. Serwo musisz kupić od Europejczyka, chociaż nie widzę dlaczego serwo od innego auta miałoby nie pasować.

Car is now sold

Sold

Additional info i forgot to add: Historic tax class in V5 Locks freshly serviced by Craig from this forum (thanks) and all on one key.

View Advert Ford Cortina MK5 1983 FOR SALE £8500 Ford Cortina GL 1.6 1983 Y Reg HAR 476Y This car has undergone a restoration over the past 2 years. Lot of work done. New weber carburetor, New air filter, New oil filter, New oil, new timing belt, new radiator hoses, new water pump, 3x New door seals (2 front 1 rear), New boot seal, New fuel tank, New temperature sensor, Reconditioned fuel/temp gauge electronics, new ventilation seals + insulation, new washer fluid seal, New rocker cover seal, New spark plugs, New chrome window trim, interior and gutter chrome reconditioned. Whole interior removed, deep cleaned and reconditioned. New soundproofing fitted. Whole car detailed in and out. Undercarrige and suspention fully rustproofed, double coated in problematic areas. I repaired bodywork, paintowork and other imperfections around the car. all electrics checked, fog lights fitted. Brake fluid replaced. Brake disks, pads, drums in Great condition, low milage since last brake change. Great condition for 42 years, almost no rust and paintwork in decent condition for its age. Full history, one owner 1983-2004. Original invoice and dealer letters, lots of paperwork from 80s and 90s. Owned by a mechanic previously. Drives very well, mechanicaly perfect. The car is ready to drive and looks stunning. Drives great, turns great, no knocks. Brake pedal hard, clutch good. Gears change very smoothly. The only imperfections are quite minor, it would not take much to make it perfect. Advertiser Jakub Date 04/29/2025 Price 8,500.00 GBP Category Cars For Sale  

FOR SALE £8500 Ford Cortina GL 1.6 1983 Y Reg HAR 476Y This car has undergone a restoration over the past 2 years. Lot of work done. New weber carburetor, New air filter, New oil filter, New oil, new timing belt, new radiator hoses, new water pump, 3x New door seals (2 front 1 rear), New boot seal, New fuel tank, New temperature sensor, Reconditioned fuel/temp gauge electronics, new ventilation seals + insulation, new washer fluid seal, New rocker cover seal, New spark plugs, New chrome window trim, interior and gutter chrome reconditioned. Whole interior removed, deep cleaned and reconditioned. New soundproofing fitted. Whole car detailed in and out. Undercarrige and suspention fully rustproofed, double coated in problematic areas. I repaired bodywork, paintowork and other imperfections around the car. all electrics checked, fog lights fitted. Brake fluid replaced. Brake disks, pads, drums in Great condition, low milage since last brake change. Great condition for 42 years, almost no rust and paintwork in decent condition for its age. Full history, one owner 1983-2004. Original invoice and dealer letters, lots of paperwork from 80s and 90s. Owned by a mechanic previously. Drives very well, mechanicaly perfect. The car is ready to drive and looks stunning. Drives great, turns great, no knocks. Brake pedal hard, clutch good. Gears change very smoothly. The only imperfections are quite minor, it would not take much to make it perfect.

ok, i am ready to send it, please could you PM me paypal credentials, i will pay and send.

Thank you, is the adress address you PMed me still up to date?

Hello, i would like to get my locks working on the same key as my ignition. can i just take this to any locksmith? i also need new stones in the boot lock, as mine is an empty barrel that can be opened with a screwdriver

8000 is the cheapest quote. this is because i am 17 and this is my first car. im also considering going abroad for university so i may have to sell the car anyway. at least i had fun restoring it.

i had to send my v5 to the dvla, all the post offices said they would not do it.

i managed to get them off in the end, but not without drilling right through the heater knob though :( I fixed it with some hot glue and spray paint

yes, i have drilled as far through as i can go without drilling right through it, cant be corrosion as the wd40 did nothing. i guess i could try a thicker drill bit?

Still not coming off, I'm completely stumped.

i tried drilling it out today and its still not coming off, i put a little bit of wd40 in it and i will let it sit overnight.