Dave A

I hate guessing and just changing parts because it can get expensive. If you can get a test light and make sure that you are getting power to the positive side of the ignition coil with the key on (position II) would be a good place to start. With the engine cranking over the voltage on the negative side of the coil should pulse. If it pulses then it may be a bad coil. Other preliminary checks would be to make sure that the rotor button is in fact turning. I would check for spark at the coil secondary wire on the end that goes into the dizzy cap. Also make sure that the connection is good where the dizzy wiring plugs into the engine wiring harness. A good visual check to all of the wiring etc and inside the dizzy would be a good idea. Did you see anything definitive wrong with the inlet manifold gaskets when you had it apart?

I hate guessing and just changing parts because it can get expensive. If you can get a test light and make sure that you are getting power to the positive side of the ignition coil with the key on (position II) would be a good place to start. With the engine cranking over the voltage on the negative side of the coil should pulse. If it pulses then it may be a bad coil. Other preliminary checks would be to make sure that the rotor button is in fact turning. I would check for spark at the coil secondary wire on the end that goes into the dizzy cap. Also make sure that the connection is good where the dizzy wiring plugs into the engine wiring harness. A good visual check to all of the wiring etc and inside the dizzy would be a good idea.

A friend on ebay needs help listing this item. It is said to fit an English Ford. Does anyone know if it does and which model. It looks similar to Corsair but I dont think it is?

Yes it doesnt look too bad Richard. Keep up the good work. I would only trim back as far as the rotten bit then trim down the repair panel to size.

Looks like a very good find stu. What is happening with the one you restored?

:cheers: :clown: ;) Stick with it G.O you know it'll be worth it in the end!!!

Well it looks like a very decent car and well off to a good start on the restoration. Floor looks very good in the car as well and with all those spares....

Very very nice E! :cheers: :clown: ;)

That sounds the same as the two pics i have posted here. Both of mine have A2 on the boot floor while one car is Dragoon Red and the other is Light Blue. I am pretty sure the makings are on top of the paint not the other way round as it's a good heavy coat of paint in there and the markings as very clear

Congratulations Fred! She looks to be in pretty good condition.

Very helpful and informative site Dave. Richard will have to find his way on here.

So are you going to source new outriggers Richard or let the welder make up his own? Are you able to do some of the filler work once the welding is complete?

In these pics the top two are 1967, the third one down is 1968/69/70 and the bottom one is Capri.

Wow! Very nice looking E Barn....

Yes try that first. If it helps, a dab of lube on all of the contact points where the tailgate meets the body and some spray grease onto the hinges and latch should help. If it still squeaks with the gate open try bouncing the car at the rear to see if you can hear the noise, if so you may need someone to crawl around underneath to try and find it while you are bouncing it.

If there are two threaded holes there, you should fit a puller to remove the wheel. If not a quick shot with an air chisel (with the flat round end of course) while someone else is pulling up on the steering wheel gets them off right now or like Trotter says have an assistant hit the shaft while you are pulling up on the wheel. Be careful not to damage the shaft. Maybe have the nut in place while you are doing it.

I presume you guys have done this, however, no handbrake should be adjusted without first removing the drums and adjusting the shoes as wide as they will go and still be able to get the drum back on and turn freely. This should be done with the cross cable disconnected (or ensure there is slackness in the cable) to ensure pull on the cable isnt preventing full adjustment of the shoes. This procedure takes alot of slack out of the cables and sometimes requires backing off handbrake (especially the cross cable) to get the proper adjustment. If the handbrake is still too loose and both adjustments are set up, they have those cable shortening clamps that can be put on the cable to shorten it. It clamps on the cable and has a little hook that pulls the cable into the clamp to shorten it a little.

I bet it will. My experience over 30 years of mk 2's is to look toward the dynamo first. There isnt much inside them so they can usually be repaired. The biggest thing that can go wrong is the brushes. Normally a set of brushes, front bearing and rear bush along with a polishing of the brush commutator is all that they need.

Is that a 2.9 with an A4LD transmission? Sounds like it may have an electronic problem or maybe knackered. They should shift into o/d even if the torque converter isn't locking up. i think they should shift into o/d first then the torque locks up afterward. Diagnosis begins with checking for trouble codes and then monitoring input data to the ECM from the trans gear position sensor, vehicle speed sensor, turbine shaft speed sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.

Too much fuel as you mentioned in post#31 will not make the timing dance around. A worn dizzy or loose timing chain might. Everytime i had a Mk 2 that wouldnt start till you release the key the small terminal wire had fallen off the starter solenoid. This is the circuit that gives extra voltage to the coil while cranking the engine. Once you let go of the key the coil is fed through the run circuit from the ignition switch.

I've never heard of it on a x-flow and i doubt it but i wonder if the timing chain has jumped. I was thinking that that may cause the timing marks to jump around or run worse when the timing was set. I know you said the rotor was pointing at number 1 with it at TDC as well but a way to check the tightness of the chain is to remove the dizzy cap and see how much you can rock the crankshaft in either direction before the rotor button moves.

Here's the writing on my two cars. One of mine had Al Fern written out in the same area-at the time I wasnt sure if was in reference to the paint colour or someone's name. Thinking back, I would say it was the A1 which you see like on yours along with the exterior paint colour which i think was Fern green.

The timing should not jump around while you are watching it. Try disconnecting the vacuum advance hose and watch the timing with a light. It should stay rock solid at a steady idle. If not then there must be something wrong with the dizzy. if you apply vacuum to the advance unit it should hold a vacuum and the timimng should advance. It sounds like you are getting a weak spark to the plugs which will do exactly what you describe. Carefully check how good a spark is being delivered to the plugs by shoving a round screwdriver into one of the plug leads (at the plug end) and holding it near a good clean metal ground. If it wont jump 1/8 inch or more it is inadequate. For accurate results this should be done while the engine is running. Just dont touch the metal part part of the screwdriver while you are doing it. Exhaust blockages can be ruled out by dropping the exhaust and driving the car long enough to see if symtom is still there. Poor fuel delivery will show up as a heavy bog, stalling out or starving sensation on heavy acceleration at higher rpm's.

What a nice car you have there 1500. You guys are very fortunate to find so many rust free cars in your country. Do you still see many Cortinas on the roads down there or are they getting scarce? I think it looks good either way. The trend these days is to put big inch wheels on old classics

Yup that's them alright. I knew that triangular stamping the moment I saw it.