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Sold anglia boot needed wielding and steering needed doing put new box in still knackered fell out off love with it.so next classic had be a ford and rack and pion steering ended buying this drives like new and never been wieled or messed with.all original

Bragger

On holiday down south visting my brother.went into london one day.then next day went to hasting on way back drove through the coast.and in bexhill there it was.i rescued must be nearl 20 years ago from a lock up in preston.put 2nd had 3 doors boot and bonnet and 2nd hand tan seats had fur interior 😃was yellow with front spoiler that looked like a snow plough.sold it half finshed it was solid last time i seen it was maroon.now its back to its original silver fox.looks lovely still have the original number plates in my garage and got pics when it was yellow 🤣

New to Cortinas and here is my '66 Cortina Deluxe with an auto. I intend to convert to a 1600 xflow and manual. I will lower it down some with the RetroFord rear monoleafs and will do Spax inserts for the front legs, would just need to figure out what springs to lower it with on the front.

price of diesel my car is now my daily Had worse things 😆 Had a owner of another mk3 GT 2dr visit me weekend looking for some work to be done I said I know the car was on eBay ten ISH year ago and decibed it from the add He swore at me and said I can't believe you remembered it .. Escorts all lined up rubbers catches ect Now doing a dummy fit up off everything Get it back on spit and get painting

So vibration update, as someone told me on here, it could be the engine mounts, well I went through my eBay history, I bought uprated mounts, I've since changed to softer ones, from France of all places, had cut away pictures of the thread seperate with rubber in-between, I suspect the uprated thread goes all the way through, anyway , it's like a different car, vibration gone. Also done some bodywork, rust on the seam at the back is a bad trap, cut out welded new section in, skim of fibreglass , then filled , lucky me had some paint left from respray years ago now

A change of plans today meant some unplanned Cortina work,I got more of the front panel welded on,then ran out of gas. I will get back onto it again soon.

That's a polite name for him. His supercar is the remains of a clapped out beetle with a lump of fibreglass coach bolted to it , these pound shop mike brewers drive me crazy it's like advanced faceache i can't watch/listen/interact with these people. I don't claim to be any sort of expert I'm still learning amassing info,but my replies/advice are based on 40 years of experience ( especially of mk3-4-5-P100) which I hope will help others save them wasting hard earned time & money on things that don't fit/work ,etc. I've been striving to be be an eccentric millionaire all my life unfortunately I've only mastered the first part.

Success! I found a place in Leyland, called 'Lancashire Rotating Electrics'. Just under an hours drive from my house (they do courier too). They tested my old unit and told me that it was "knackered". I think that's electrical talk for,... So they sold me a brand new unit. A little smaller and a little lighter but more powerful as he reckons the old one is about 0.8Kw and the new one is 1.1Kw. The best part is, they didn't take the old starter in exchange and the new one only cost me £66.00 including the VAT. Fingers crossed that I can fit it tomorrow and the car will start first time, without melting the insulation on the red lead from the battery! I think I'm gonna need some longer starter bolts though.

Back on the road just got to bleed the brakes.might uprate or go the cortina route agian 😎

Run out today😀

Hi all, I am starting a build on a MK5 Cortina Estate that used to belong to a Fanatic member years ago who sadly passed away. His intent was to Cosworth V6 the car so that is my intention. Here is the link to the first video I have made about the car giving a walkaround and the story behind it. Hope you all enjoy it. Cheers Andy.

A little upgrade

Had some time on the Cortina today,time to fit the end repair sections to the upper front panel. The panel tapers towards each end so had to modify the repair sections. I got the offside one wrong,so need to do it again,but the nearside one looks to be ok.

Well it is a ford Cam in for a couple of chips and colour matching ,made the top 5 filler jobs I've seen As for the welding just as good just waiting on half the inner tub it's all been rust treated and then go tinted epoxy the new colour the cars going

Invisible ones.

Well bit the bullet and spent £150 on a new fuel tank sender, got to say came with the seal and fitted a treat , it is pricey though

Exhaust is probably condensation, a new cap is peanuts & seconds to fit /try. After that a compression tester is cheap & simple to use. You could buy a water system pressure tester or make one from an old rad cap. Drill a hole in the centre of cap ,remove innards fit a tyre valve in hole fit cap then use your tyre pump to put about 15psi in system. The pressure should remain constant. If it starts to drop look/listen for water/air leaking somewhere.

First post of the year Ugh what an uphill battle this was. Bought a new rocker shaft from Small Ford Spares (105E-6563-B) but that turned out to be the "motor sport" version and came with no E-clips for the ends. Also a smidge undersized and with light surface rust at places. Probably same as sold by Burtons. Next I remembered that I had a stack of old shafts squared away but those were also a bit too worn, though one was almost good enough but had been incorrectly removed so was a bit bananed. So off to Ebay.. Got a NOS one (2733E-6363-A, 1433716) that also came with some light surface rust at places, nothing that really matters but still.. Polished and thoroughly cleaned that and finally got around to assemble all the bits I had cleaned in preparation in the ultrasonic bath. Clearance spec for the rockers are (as far as I can tell) .003" to 0.055" but luckily these seem to be harder than the shaft so I managed to put together a decent set. I really did not want to scratch my shiny new rocker shaft so I warmed up the aluminium post in a toaster oven before assembly; This really did help. Only twice I managed to get the rockers on in the wrong orientation.. New cotter pins were fitted at the ends. And the finished product; Usable No excessive play in the rockers, everything moves as a machined part should. Bolts fit through the posts easily but these will need to be tapped to their right places when assembled to the cylinder head. Not be a big deal. Assembly was well oiled, shrinkwrapped & squirreled away for safekeeping. All this happened in small ~1hr sessions throughout the winter, maybe as the weather warms up I can spend a bit more time at the garage. What's next? No idea but loads more left to do.

I have purchased a couple of Autospark looms and both have been trouble. On one when the indicators flashed the horn sounded. I rung them and they immediately told me what the problem was, apparently they had connected the wires inside incorrectly and if I wanted to send the loom back they would rectify it. Needless to say I didnt and fixed it myself once he had told me where in the loom the problem would be. You would think they would test it especially when you consider the cost. A new loom often seems like a good idea but I prefer to repair what is in the car unless completely destroyed. Often all that is needed is some new ends and new loom tape.

well that was it , just needed a better earth , which i thought it might , im using an Autosparks loom which in hindsight i wish i hadn't, so i have the double solenoid ,but its turning over a treat now. onto the ignition system next then thanks all

If you go much more than an inch you'll start scrubbing the inside of the front tyres due to increased negative camber . If memory serves 1 degree needs the lower arm mounting bolt moving inwards 5mm. Used to run 3 degrees negative on racer (cornering was great) but tyres would be bald on inside edge in circa 4k miles on road. So you have to get adjustable arms or redrill cradle, best supplier is rally design, most places don't understand Cortina running gear as escort is king, especially Burton power. Same will happen with rear I think there used to be wedge shaped spacers for the rear bearing mounts on sierra to correct camber. Most of all remember with state of roads it will soon drive you crazy dodging potholes, speed bumps etc. If you really must have the collapsed suspension look go air ride.

Yes , my era too . i bought a Remington shaver at the time but it was so square , you needed a chin like Desperate Dan to use it (more past memories eh !!)

If its any help or assistance, a "work a round" used to some good effect (back then) was to place a small length of metal tubing between the outer clutch cable and the bell housing. The theory being you'd click the quadrant ratchet up a few notches and use a fresh set of "teeth ?" .......................

Criminal.

Got its new tyres i was going to put set polished rs alloys on it but car so original left the sports wheels on

I am sure a piece of P Seal or Tadpole seal if we could find something close to the original size (20mm x 10mm ) would look almost original something like this https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/srs1914-21467?page=2&category=448 Those little pegs that hold it in place are easily sourced like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334876748600

They don't make memories sitting in a garage.

Big project! Top job bringing it back.

Just finshed 2nd binder got bit over welming got everything from day 1

Yes, I finally got the Cortina running again today. I cleaned the gap in the points (forgot to do that when I fitted them a while back DOH!) put some petrol in the float chamber. Sprayed a few good shots of Easystart down the carb, cranked it over a few times. Played about with the dissy a bit and VROOM! Turned it off, bought 1/2 a gallon of E5 petrol and put it in the tank, cranked it up again with a couple of slight kickbacks, timing again! Stuck the old strobe light on, tried again and Bingo! Now it's just the brakes I have to sort out. Knowing my luck, Robbing Rachel Thieves will slap a big fat road tax bill on it, just as I get it back on the road, so I'll end up having to SORN or sell!

Well I was happy even if nobody else gives a hoot.

With bonded shoes this is usually caused by damp &/or age.

Painted....

Current state

My eng is circa 200 I run ford RS 4 spokes ( correct one for a MK3 cortina too) with 185/70x13. But I've run 205/55x15 with fwd offset ( can't remember the ET number). The racer is circa 200 & runs 195/60x 14 on 7x14 steels. The fox chassis is different only the axle is similar, the Mustang 2 uses a similar front axle but again rest is different.

I now answer if not when my bakkie gets on road. When it's mentioned. My cousin & a friend keep saying sell the crayford ( it's be off road around 10 years) & scrap your dad's Mk5 ( been off road since he died 22 years ago. Then you'd have room in garage! The polite answer is, sell some of the 10 motorcycles you've got ( never ridden, are incomplete & your lass doesn't know you've got in garage) & to later is why have you just bought an SWB S3 landy project ( horrible things it's a posh tractor) when you haven't finished your MK2 estate or 4dr or your sierra P100. Ending with go forth & multiply.

Not a bad watch on a Sunday evening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pl7gqWd7lU

Car had been sitting outside and hadn’t been used in about 6 weeks so last night it got a clean and I used it today. Some pictures …..

Done quite a bit but my life gone in different diriction just sits in the garage going finsh the front breaks and it done needs a deeo clean and polish 20250622_212122.mp4

My wife experienced this once in her Mk1 Golf, she went round a sharp right hand bend and the cap fell off the distributer (1300 engine, dizzy on end of head). It was .ing with rain so instead of opening the bonnet for a look she made a call to the AA ........ reason the cap came off was because I'd cleaned the rotor arm the night before and sat the cap back on but didn't clip it on ....... it drove for 50 miles before that sharp right corner !

Taking the thermostat out is to ignore the problem, I wouldn’t recommend it. Check all the pipes are hot. If you haven’t checked the level for ages, it might be that, air locked or it might be the pump… is your timing correct? There’s so many things that are easy to check if you take out the thermostat you can get what I think is called cavitation, where the water isn’t circulating through the rad at all, but just going round in the engine and getting hotter and hotter. Take out the rad and flush it through.

cool as a penguins dick that is mate !!!

No it was only ever available as part of a full inner wing. Also be aware the piece is different size shape between the mk's ( the bush is in the same relative space) but pre & post MK3 have a different size hole/bushing . Mk5 the chassis rail is thinner so panel is taller ( I'm not sure if MK4 is same as MK3 facelift or Mk5 as I've never measured a MK4) you'll have to make it by hand. I do have a template for the mk3's.

You gotta love a Moose! Top job