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Sold anglia boot needed wielding and steering needed doing put new box in still knackered fell out off love with it.so next classic had be a ford and rack and pion steering ended buying this drives like new and never been wieled or messed with.all original

After nearly 7 years since I sold my last mk5, I recently bought this at auction, 1.6 carousel, one owner from new, full history, fully Ziebart treatment from new and original bill of sale from Ford.

Bragger

A change of plans today meant some unplanned Cortina work,I got more of the front panel welded on,then ran out of gas. I will get back onto it again soon.

This car is now in UK and sits next to its sister car BA91GL91031 I purchased this car in Norway 2 years ago and have only just got it back to UK Both these Boreham Rally cars are back together sitting side by side after many many years apart Both cars are due to be restored 030 is Bengt Soderstom 031 Ove Andersson

Hi guys,It's been a while since the last update,nearside inner wing is now fitted,still a couple of small bits to do,then onto the offside.

Hmmmm

New to Cortinas and here is my '66 Cortina Deluxe with an auto. I intend to convert to a 1600 xflow and manual. I will lower it down some with the RetroFord rear monoleafs and will do Spax inserts for the front legs, would just need to figure out what springs to lower it with on the front.

price of diesel my car is now my daily Had worse things 😆 Had a owner of another mk3 GT 2dr visit me weekend looking for some work to be done I said I know the car was on eBay ten ISH year ago and decibed it from the add He swore at me and said I can't believe you remembered it .. Escorts all lined up rubbers catches ect Now doing a dummy fit up off everything Get it back on spit and get painting

So vibration update, as someone told me on here, it could be the engine mounts, well I went through my eBay history, I bought uprated mounts, I've since changed to softer ones, from France of all places, had cut away pictures of the thread seperate with rubber in-between, I suspect the uprated thread goes all the way through, anyway , it's like a different car, vibration gone. Also done some bodywork, rust on the seam at the back is a bad trap, cut out welded new section in, skim of fibreglass , then filled , lucky me had some paint left from respray years ago now

First post of the year Ugh what an uphill battle this was. Bought a new rocker shaft from Small Ford Spares (105E-6563-B) but that turned out to be the "motor sport" version and came with no E-clips for the ends. Also a smidge undersized and with light surface rust at places. Probably same as sold by Burtons. Next I remembered that I had a stack of old shafts squared away but those were also a bit too worn, though one was almost good enough but had been incorrectly removed so was a bit bananed. So off to Ebay.. Got a NOS one (2733E-6363-A, 1433716) that also came with some light surface rust at places, nothing that really matters but still.. Polished and thoroughly cleaned that and finally got around to assemble all the bits I had cleaned in preparation in the ultrasonic bath. Clearance spec for the rockers are (as far as I can tell) .003" to 0.055" but luckily these seem to be harder than the shaft so I managed to put together a decent set. I really did not want to scratch my shiny new rocker shaft so I warmed up the aluminium post in a toaster oven before assembly; This really did help. Only twice I managed to get the rockers on in the wrong orientation.. New cotter pins were fitted at the ends. And the finished product; Usable No excessive play in the rockers, everything moves as a machined part should. Bolts fit through the posts easily but these will need to be tapped to their right places when assembled to the cylinder head. Not be a big deal. Assembly was well oiled, shrinkwrapped & squirreled away for safekeeping. All this happened in small ~1hr sessions throughout the winter, maybe as the weather warms up I can spend a bit more time at the garage. What's next? No idea but loads more left to do.

That's a polite name for him. His supercar is the remains of a clapped out beetle with a lump of fibreglass coach bolted to it , these pound shop mike brewers drive me crazy it's like advanced faceache i can't watch/listen/interact with these people. I don't claim to be any sort of expert I'm still learning amassing info,but my replies/advice are based on 40 years of experience ( especially of mk3-4-5-P100) which I hope will help others save them wasting hard earned time & money on things that don't fit/work ,etc. I've been striving to be be an eccentric millionaire all my life unfortunately I've only mastered the first part.

Success! I found a place in Leyland, called 'Lancashire Rotating Electrics'. Just under an hours drive from my house (they do courier too). They tested my old unit and told me that it was "knackered". I think that's electrical talk for,... So they sold me a brand new unit. A little smaller and a little lighter but more powerful as he reckons the old one is about 0.8Kw and the new one is 1.1Kw. The best part is, they didn't take the old starter in exchange and the new one only cost me £66.00 including the VAT. Fingers crossed that I can fit it tomorrow and the car will start first time, without melting the insulation on the red lead from the battery! I think I'm gonna need some longer starter bolts though.

Cortina in the evening sunshine.

Think oval port would be 702 , D port 722 stamped in .

Ditto

Cheers dean High build epoxy tinted some bits ready to start spot welding the panels I'll mark where spots going to be then clean up and put weld through primer

Well it is a ford Cam in for a couple of chips and colour matching ,made the top 5 filler jobs I've seen As for the welding just as good just waiting on half the inner tub it's all been rust treated and then go tinted epoxy the new colour the cars going

Invisible ones.

Well bit the bullet and spent £150 on a new fuel tank sender, got to say came with the seal and fitted a treat , it is pricey though

Exhaust is probably condensation, a new cap is peanuts & seconds to fit /try. After that a compression tester is cheap & simple to use. You could buy a water system pressure tester or make one from an old rad cap. Drill a hole in the centre of cap ,remove innards fit a tyre valve in hole fit cap then use your tyre pump to put about 15psi in system. The pressure should remain constant. If it starts to drop look/listen for water/air leaking somewhere.

I have purchased a couple of Autospark looms and both have been trouble. On one when the indicators flashed the horn sounded. I rung them and they immediately told me what the problem was, apparently they had connected the wires inside incorrectly and if I wanted to send the loom back they would rectify it. Needless to say I didnt and fixed it myself once he had told me where in the loom the problem would be. You would think they would test it especially when you consider the cost. A new loom often seems like a good idea but I prefer to repair what is in the car unless completely destroyed. Often all that is needed is some new ends and new loom tape.

well that was it , just needed a better earth , which i thought it might , im using an Autosparks loom which in hindsight i wish i hadn't, so i have the double solenoid ,but its turning over a treat now. onto the ignition system next then thanks all

If you go much more than an inch you'll start scrubbing the inside of the front tyres due to increased negative camber . If memory serves 1 degree needs the lower arm mounting bolt moving inwards 5mm. Used to run 3 degrees negative on racer (cornering was great) but tyres would be bald on inside edge in circa 4k miles on road. So you have to get adjustable arms or redrill cradle, best supplier is rally design, most places don't understand Cortina running gear as escort is king, especially Burton power. Same will happen with rear I think there used to be wedge shaped spacers for the rear bearing mounts on sierra to correct camber. Most of all remember with state of roads it will soon drive you crazy dodging potholes, speed bumps etc. If you really must have the collapsed suspension look go air ride.

Yes , my era too . i bought a Remington shaver at the time but it was so square , you needed a chin like Desperate Dan to use it (more past memories eh !!)

If its any help or assistance, a "work a round" used to some good effect (back then) was to place a small length of metal tubing between the outer clutch cable and the bell housing. The theory being you'd click the quadrant ratchet up a few notches and use a fresh set of "teeth ?" .......................

Criminal.

Got its new tyres i was going to put set polished rs alloys on it but car so original left the sports wheels on

I am sure a piece of P Seal or Tadpole seal if we could find something close to the original size (20mm x 10mm ) would look almost original something like this https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/srs1914-21467?page=2&category=448 Those little pegs that hold it in place are easily sourced like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334876748600

They don't make memories sitting in a garage.

Big project! Top job bringing it back.

Just finshed 2nd binder got bit over welming got everything from day 1

Yes, I finally got the Cortina running again today. I cleaned the gap in the points (forgot to do that when I fitted them a while back DOH!) put some petrol in the float chamber. Sprayed a few good shots of Easystart down the carb, cranked it over a few times. Played about with the dissy a bit and VROOM! Turned it off, bought 1/2 a gallon of E5 petrol and put it in the tank, cranked it up again with a couple of slight kickbacks, timing again! Stuck the old strobe light on, tried again and Bingo! Now it's just the brakes I have to sort out. Knowing my luck, Robbing Rachel Thieves will slap a big fat road tax bill on it, just as I get it back on the road, so I'll end up having to SORN or sell!

Well I was happy even if nobody else gives a hoot.

With bonded shoes this is usually caused by damp &/or age.

When I had my Mk1 Fiestas, an 1100L first then a 957 (hc)L (much quicker than the 1.1L) I used to buy 1.3/1.6 front pads as they were harder material. The down side was that the discs would wear out quicker!

Yes Tony and yes it's pretty accurate

It will have a leaking seal or seals in the master cylinder not the sERvo. That kit will not work, as yours is fitted with the Ate brand of master cylinder identifiable by the 13mm mounting nuts & narrower distance between the two mounting studs. That cylinder was only used for approx the last 12 months of production ( late 81-82) on Mk5 cortinas in tHe UK & is hard to find or find parts for. The later one's late late TC2-3 have 3 pipes instead of but you can blank the lower front one of with a bleed nipple & it will work correctly.

Hiya, Just putting this here for info purposes. I got a pair of recon/remanufacturedAustin Princess 4-pot calipers, to hopefully give a bit more anchoring assistance. With Capri vented discs I found that I needed 7.5mm spacers between the caliper and the upright/spindle bearer, to get the disc centered in the caliper. Thanks

New ones are available through the Cortina Mk3 club £25 for 2, which includes nuts, washers & split pins. Pair of used ones here. EBAY CLICKY

Thanks very much for the reply. With MAPP gas and a BFH I got them to this. Not perfect but closer to being a matching pair...

Can you get the ball out of the roof? If so, I'd try and drill a small diameter hole in the broken part of the ball and the broken stem. Find something like a nail of the same diameter as the holes, cut it to size so it fits into the holes and then see if the two broken sections can meet up, if they do then pull them apart a bit and put a load of superglue on the surfaces, then push them back together and whilst holding them tight, breath heavily on the joint so as to make the excess superglue set quicker. It works by absorbing the water content from the two surfaces, hence it works so damn good on skin!! After that, gently refit in the roof and keep your fingers crossed.

Might heating and bending/straightening be an option ?

No they all used same one, Mk5 is a bit bigger diameter but has a dent in inner wing for clearance. Sierra is completely different, Granada can be made to fit ,but only difference is you won't have to press pedal as hard. The African 3.0 cortinas use the std setup ( there heavier too) & manage fine. I've been running my MK3 for last 20 years with the following set up with no problems 5.0 V8 ,T5 5 speed gearbox ( this pair weigh 100+kg more) . Land rover 90/110 ( 83-90) master cylinder on original servo, MK3 Capri 2.8i/ MK2 escort RS vented discs, ( dust shields need removing). MK2 Granada 2.8 brake calipers ( the 40% bigger) need slight spacing to fit. All bolts straight on rear is sierra rear calipers (with disc brake cable ,needs Cortina you swapping over) weld on mounting brackets, fwd escort (81-90) front solid discs ( half shaft flanges need a couple of mm removing for them to fit over) , stainless flexible hoses. Again all bolts on except mounts need welding to axle tubes. All fit behind std 13 in wheels. I use the same setup on my 2.0 turbo MK3 track day car. Hopefully pics enclosed.

Thanks Rob that's what i wanted to hear mate👍👍